better for drift??
#1
better for drift??
I was wondering, im really debating over getting an sr20 or a rb25... i want to be able to drift the car quite well.. so i dont know which 1 i should get.
i know that sr are lighter, but the reason why rb25 is so heavy is mostly because of its transmission, therefore, i was putting a rb20 tranny in there (still able to handle up to 450whp), which will lighten up the weight a lot.
when talking about drifting, weight matters alot ofcourse, but more torque will help never the less.. which is why i need some sugestions. rb25's torque will most likely make up with the weight difference, and the sr weight will make up with the torque difference.... which 1 do you guys think is good?
i know that sr are lighter, but the reason why rb25 is so heavy is mostly because of its transmission, therefore, i was putting a rb20 tranny in there (still able to handle up to 450whp), which will lighten up the weight a lot.
when talking about drifting, weight matters alot ofcourse, but more torque will help never the less.. which is why i need some sugestions. rb25's torque will most likely make up with the weight difference, and the sr weight will make up with the torque difference.... which 1 do you guys think is good?
#3
Well can't really debate for the SR or RB.....
RB's are heavy engines, and sr's don't deliver enough torque.
You can stay KA and turbo charge.
For me I enjoy N/A for uphill terain I've decided to stay KA and internally overbuild like a MotherF%$ker, also upgraded to piggybacking ecu..........
RB's are heavy engines, and sr's don't deliver enough torque.
You can stay KA and turbo charge.
For me I enjoy N/A for uphill terain I've decided to stay KA and internally overbuild like a MotherF%$ker, also upgraded to piggybacking ecu..........
#4
drifting the car doesn't really matter so much on engine. It's the driver's skill level. If i were u, i'd just stick to watever engine u have n build it up to factory code or somethin n see how well u can drift with that. Personally, i love the KA.
But if u dont wanna go with that i say SR.
But if u dont wanna go with that i say SR.
#5
If you plan on drifting i would suggest Suspension and LSD first... If your KA is in good shape, wait til it blows before u swap. You dont need much power to drift. You just got to know how to work the throttle
#7
Originally posted by CowboyTurbo
true enough, but having a high power high torque engine just makes it THAT much easier. imho I'd go SR or KA-T if you're going to be using the car strictly for drift purposes...
true enough, but having a high power high torque engine just makes it THAT much easier. imho I'd go SR or KA-T if you're going to be using the car strictly for drift purposes...
#8
The most important part to the perfect drift car is stripping out the back seats, and stripping the trunk space. Get the rear to swing out.
Then focus on suspension. Coilovers are great like TEIN Brand, or NEX Brand.
Or you can go with the reliable KYB AGX struts, and TEIN springs as a combo.
Don't forget the little things like the tower brace bars and make sure that every joint is welded, Those $30 tower brace bars on EBAY are a shame and they still allow the chassis to flex $30 bucks doesn't cut it.
Also look for thiker diameter rear and front anti sway bars, make syre you use new poly propelien bushings for the install.
Then focus on suspension. Coilovers are great like TEIN Brand, or NEX Brand.
Or you can go with the reliable KYB AGX struts, and TEIN springs as a combo.
Don't forget the little things like the tower brace bars and make sure that every joint is welded, Those $30 tower brace bars on EBAY are a shame and they still allow the chassis to flex $30 bucks doesn't cut it.
Also look for thiker diameter rear and front anti sway bars, make syre you use new poly propelien bushings for the install.
#9
Originally posted by BigVinnie
The most important part to the perfect drift car is stripping out the back seats, and stripping the trunk space. Get the rear to swing out.
Then focus on suspension. Coilovers are great like TEIN Brand, or NEX Brand.
Or you can go with the reliable KYB AGX struts, and TEIN springs as a combo.
Don't forget the little things like the tower brace bars and make sure that every joint is welded, Those $30 tower brace bars on EBAY are a shame and they still allow the chassis to flex $30 bucks doesn't cut it.
Also look for thiker diameter rear and front anti sway bars, make syre you use new poly propelien bushings for the install.
The most important part to the perfect drift car is stripping out the back seats, and stripping the trunk space. Get the rear to swing out.
Then focus on suspension. Coilovers are great like TEIN Brand, or NEX Brand.
Or you can go with the reliable KYB AGX struts, and TEIN springs as a combo.
Don't forget the little things like the tower brace bars and make sure that every joint is welded, Those $30 tower brace bars on EBAY are a shame and they still allow the chassis to flex $30 bucks doesn't cut it.
Also look for thiker diameter rear and front anti sway bars, make syre you use new poly propelien bushings for the install.
Last edited by kramsuey2268; 05-25-2005 at 06:52 PM.
#10
Originally posted by kramsuey2268
Most important car of a drift car is reducing body roll and getting rid of that open diff.... I drift just fine with rear seats and 2 45lb 13.5" subwoofers in the back... come to think of it... i got a full size spare back there too
Most important car of a drift car is reducing body roll and getting rid of that open diff.... I drift just fine with rear seats and 2 45lb 13.5" subwoofers in the back... come to think of it... i got a full size spare back there too
Vinnie, you're spreading a WHOLE LOT of misinfo man.... do you actually drift or are u a keyboard driftah? :P AGX/most springs are WAY too soft to drift consistantly.... STB's wha? Some of the better drivers I know swear by only using the rear and not using a front STB at all (for those who have a smoother style over a muscle-it style), and unless you get a REALLY poorly manufactured STB, any brand will do, a $20 pilot motorsports bar will be just fine... people that have uber nice/expensive cusco or trust, or whatever JDM tyte bars will usually admit, it's for the bling value, no increased rigidity (which again can be good OR bad, depending on your drivign style) Tein coils would be better, but certainly not the first suggestion I wouldn't think... I mean Tein was in america before a lot of big name JDM brands, but in japan, Tein is a lower level, more budget company... i'm not hating on u, but we don't want ocean getting the wrong impression, soundsl like he's pretty new
oceanblue_1128
I'm seen LOTS of people drift with just their 15 year old KA24E. It's about experience, driver's skill, LSD that fits your driving style and good suspension.
So many people are all about the hype of having an "SR" or "RB" to doridori JDM-style. That's just crap. THe most important thing you can do is go to a track day and LEARN YOUR CAR. Everyone can drive, no everyone can anticipate what that 15 year old suspension is going to do when you feel oncoming snap oversteer going 60 into a downhill chicane.
If drifting is what you want to do, spend all your hard earned cash on your suspension and a good LSD (a real one, not a VLSD)... get a good seat to hold you in and above all PRACTICE!
#11
Originally posted by kramsuey2268
Most important car of a drift car is reducing body roll and getting rid of that open diff.... I drift just fine with rear seats and 2 45lb 13.5" subwoofers in the back... come to think of it... i got a full size spare back there too
Most important car of a drift car is reducing body roll and getting rid of that open diff.... I drift just fine with rear seats and 2 45lb 13.5" subwoofers in the back... come to think of it... i got a full size spare back there too
#13
Originally posted by Yoshi_Sil40
If drifting is what you want to do, spend all your hard earned cash on your suspension and a good LSD (a real one, not a VLSD)... get a good seat to hold you in and above all PRACTICE!
If drifting is what you want to do, spend all your hard earned cash on your suspension and a good LSD (a real one, not a VLSD)... get a good seat to hold you in and above all PRACTICE!
the one thing i remembered that i hated about my viscous was that I would have to be on the throttle constantly to keep the diff locking... and keep the rpms above 4k, or else one wheel would start to slip. which was a problem with long sweepers, because I would have to rely on speed to keep the drift going more so then the diff locking.
a 2-way locks whether your Accelling or deccelling... and when your braking... 2-ways make me happy
and yoshi... that conversion is making me very jealous..lol
Last edited by kramsuey2268; 05-25-2005 at 07:04 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
NiSmO Knight
Suspension, Chassis, and Brakes
0
04-12-2003 09:47 PM
AzzySK
Suspension, Chassis, and Brakes
3
10-25-2002 07:05 AM