driftingjdm240

ok...thanks for the quick info.....

PNG

I'll have to find the scan of my dyno runs.

Cliff Notes version:

KA24E + automatic trans
Injen CAI
3" cat-back

135 WHP

+ "60-shot" Nitrous Works single-point wet kit...

210 WHP / 286 pound-feet

Wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it myself.

BigVinnie

iTrader: (2)

Hey PNG how much is a refill of 60 shot NOS costing these days. What is the capacity of the tank? I'm thinking on going on a progressive 60 or 100 shot with my DE.

Kinematics

Good info. Stock Spec V cams are pretty good, but replacing the cams in the QR however with Nismo or JWT (Same cams, basicly, with JWT being slightly more aggressive), would free up 12-15whp untuned on an i/h/e Spec V.

Irrelevant information here, but I thought I'd share.

Biggamehit

iTrader: (2)

impressive, still gotta go turbo for me, even with proper installation and usage, im affraid of the bottle.

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$3.50 to $4.00 a pound for nitrous out here. I have a 10 lb tank, and I can get probably a dozen or more quarter mile passes out of it before I need a refill. Even then, it usually only takes 8 pounds or so to get it back to "full". It can get expensive if you have it turned on all the time on the street, or if you can't resist the urge to get all happy with the purge button, but it takes a long time and many bottles to make up the price difference between a $500 nitrous kit and a $1500 (or more) turbo conversion that makes similar power.

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I hear that a lot, and (no offense..) I'm not sure it's totally rational. If anything, a nitrous motor making 210 at the wheels should last much longer than a turbo motor making the same power and torque. The main reason is that the nitrous isn't "on" all the time like the turbo is - when the system isn't activated, there's zero extra stress on the engine. With a turbo motor, even at part throttle, there's normally at least some boost putting extra stress on the engine all the time. Granted, it's not a lot, but it's always there and unless you have a boost controller that you can set to zero PSI, you can't turn it off like you can with nitrous.

I know that a lot of people worry about things like stuck solenoids or blocked fuel lines killing the motor on the bottle, but if you think about it, fuel starvation is just as easy with a turbo motor, and a bad boost controller or a blown wastegate actuator line can nuke a boosted motor just as quick.

To steal a phrase from some folks I can't stand, "All I am saying is give spray a chance"

Biggamehit

iTrader: (2)

very cool and partialy true remarks. forged internals help relieve some of the strees of a turbo motor. A Factory Turbo motor comes with parts that will help reduce stress and a NA to turbo motor can handle minimum boost. It comes down to the amount of HP u are putting down and how hard of a driver the owner of the car is.

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Well, let's compare apples to apples. Of course, a turbo motor with forged internals is going to be stronger than a factory N/A motor on nitrous with stock pistons, rods, and crank. But put those same premium parts into the nitrous motor, and you're again in a position where it's going to have a durability edge over a turbo motor making the same power.

The only part of the equation that comes out in favor of a turbo motor (with all other factors being the same) is that it will tend to have less cylinder pressure at low RPM, before the turbo is making full boost. A nitrous system, unless it's set up using a progressive controller, delivers the same amount of extra horsepower from idle to redline. While it can be hard on an engine to spray it with 50-hp jets at 1500 RPM, essentially doubling the engine's output at that point on the curve, it also means the car accelerates a lot faster than the raw horsepower number would suggest, because it's not peaky.

BigVinnie

iTrader: (2)

Small comment that no one pointed out. F/I engines have a concern for greater wear and tear to the piston rings. Not only from boosting, but also from engine oil tempratures (usually higher temps at higher boosting). F/I engines on track time usually run alot hotter I've seen N/A's and F/I's go head to head on the track with the relatively same HP. N/A's usually keep a better pace on the track in the long run.
When it boils down to facts N/A is much more durable, even if on NOS.

Biggamehit

iTrader: (2)

understandable.