miked808 I'm dedicating all this info to your ignorant ***.
Took me 5 minutes of my time on google.
http://www.vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/exhaust.htm
http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles/73598/
http://www.flirthermography.com/medi...astorFINAL.pdf

 

Jesus BigVinnie, Do you ever stop whoring the threads? I see like 3 posts of yours at a time back to back. Quit being such a douchecock to everyone. Internet fighting may be fun but I made a thread to show people the new exhaust I just bought, not to hear you talk about you getting more ***** than other people and having more knowledge than other people.

 

I guess ignorance is blissfull for you.
How bout showin me some dyno results, I wanna make shure that is a well $500 whatever you spent, and my point proven.

 

A 1.6 liter is not the same as a 2.4 liter. An RSX is not a 240. And I'm just a regular guy on a forum trying to learn from others. It may be trial and error but contributing with no real world experience makes you a simp not a pimp! I love how I'm ignorant with my 3' magnaflow exhaust that makes more power than my old 2.5.

 

How would it prove your point?

That exhaust WILL show gains over the stock exhaust. Guaranteed.

The reason people go with 3" is because that is what's available. It was going to cost me more than $500 to have a local shop make up a good 2.5" mandrel system out of stainless.

So the alternative is what? Pacesetter's tack welded chamber muffler? I've used their products before. I won't do it again.

If you tuned your AFC, you must have dyno runs. Post em up.

-Justin

 

Hey joker, I mean miked808,
Directly from the source. I don't have to put on a 3" exhaust to know it doesn't work. This is from the article you should of read.


There are two primary considerations involved in designing/choosing an exhaust. The first deals with the exhaust gas that travels at 200-300 feet per second. Here we are concerned with reducing the back pressure while maintaining flow velocity to get the best cylinder exhaust purging. The second is exhaust pulses or finite-amplitude pressure waves which travel the speed of sound or at about 1700 feet per second. These pulses can be tuned to create an effect known as scavenging (sucking additional exhaust out and intake charge in, with a properly timed negative pressure pulse).

Exhaust gas - General rule of thumb, a narrower diameter pipe will improve low rpm flow hence torque but may limit top end. A wide diameter pipe will enable top end power but have poor low end velocity (eg great for the track but lacking on the street). So choose the where you want your power band and set diameter accordingly. Increasing or decreasing pipe diameter 1/8th will move the torque peak about 500 rpm up or down. Varying the length of the pipe will fill in the power curve around the torque peak. Shorter pipes fill above and longer pipes below. A good starting point for exhaust pipe area is the circumference of the valves times the maximum lift plus about 15%.

 

You are always talking about articles, and research. One more time for you, I've had both and I don't need an article that starts with The General Rule of Thumb is. Jeez just do me a favor and know what your'e talking about. Plus I love how you are some great N.A. tuner but youre SAFC is fresh out the box. Plus big Vin, How big are you 300, 400 pounds.

 

Thats false you don't need dyno runs for an SAFC, just don't advance the TTP any further than the engine can handle in it's 270cc injection cycle.
I don't even **** with open and closed loop so the program starts at 1600RPM in increments of 10%, until 3000RPM where then I set the TTP above 30% for larger fuel dumping.
Seriously NO dyno needed for the SAFC.

 

You really are a LOSER. L

 

So you just set your fuel computer to dump MORE fuel? Isn't the main goal to use them to lean out the overly rich factory program?

So do you use a datalogged wideband to tune, or just a butt dyno?

-Justin

 

Just butt dyno for the SAFC, it's not a big deal.
Data loggers are used to reprogram I wouldn't be using that at all and it cost about $1200, I would need to start a business to reprogram ecu's if that was the case.
Plan on selling the SAFC in a few months anyways plan on getting an enthalapy tuned ECU to get better curves.

 

Big Vinny tunes with a butt dyno.
He gets alot of ***.
His car gets **** on at the track.

 

In your dreams dude.
For real, like I say for most people ignorance is bliss, and my job in this thread is done. I have proven my point with relative fact.
3" is extremely unecessary. For an all stock N/A KA, but then again you guys are free to do as you want, I put the word out that you can save your money abit and that there are other alternatives, but do as you like.

 

Here's a rule of thumb - Your Butt Dyno is full of ****.

You cannot tune an SAFC just for the heck of it. And if you're using it to ADD fuel, then you're following the Honda (Speed / Density EFI) guidelines, which in NO WAY apply to Nissan fuel management, which uses a MAF to adjust for changes in the volumetric efficiency of the motor.

So you tuned your AFC backwards. Pay $100 for an hour on the dyno and you will see that you gain power by subtracting fuel on a Nissan program.

BTW, logging widebands can be had for less than $500.

-Justin

 

DUH Dick it is to set a lower voltage from the MAF to dump more fuel, that proved nothing.