A Little Bit of N/A Help
12-25-2007, 12:15 AM
#1
A Little Bit of N/A Help
So I figured I'd share my $0.02 with you guys about N/A stuff. I'm pretty sure most of your guys know some of this stuff, some of you may already have been blessed with BigVinnes knowledge but for some, they just dont know, and are shy to ask so....
I figured I'd help all the noobs out
Power Mods:
Header(The Intake and Exhaust Mani Seem To Be The Problem Area's Of The KA So I would Assume a Decent Gain from This)
Test Pipe or Hi-Flow Cat(Random Tech is said to Flow the Best)
Exhaust(More Flow = More Power.)
Custom USRI(Ultra Short Ram Intake - The One that goes where the Battery is suppose to be, Increase Flow & Response - Or Any Intake Will Do)
KAE Engine High C/R Pistons(KAE Pistons Will Give High C/R Then what rated for The KAE Engine, i.e. 10.0 C/R KAE Pistons on the DE may yield 12.0C/R? - Also Increasing Bore = More Displacement, Doing some Research It seems that The Valve Reliefs Do Not Align so Using Aftermarket Cams w/ SOHC Pistons should not be done)
Lightweight Pulleys(Larger Diameter Can Also Reduce Resistance)
Port & Polish Head(Remove As little material As possible but smooth Rough Surfaces - Increases Velocity)
Decking/Shaving Head(Yield Higher C/R)
Advance Timing(I would Advance No More then 5*, 3* To Be Safe)
Some Sort Of Intake Manifold(ITB's Is About The Best N/A intake There is, If Not Porting and Matching The Intake Can Yield Good Gains Also)
Throttle Body Spacer(Seems To Work For Other Cars So Why Not Try it)
Throttle Body Boring(Increases Response and Flow)
Upgrading Fuel system(Really Not Needed But I'm sure after all these Years Your Systems Getting Old So Do it a Favor, and Upgrade Maybe)
Upgrading Your Ignition(More/Stronger/Better spark = Better Burning Fuel, so........)
Cams(I would Only Go Up To 264's, I Like Having Smooth Idle, Yield 12HP?)
Valve Springs & Retainers(stiffer Springs Allow for More RPM and Resist Coil Bind, Interchangeable with CA, VG, and RB20)
Valves(Over Sized Valves Allow for More Air Flow, But Going Too Big will Reduce The Flow Velocity, SO Bigger Isn't Always Better, Great For Turbo Thought, i Would Stay in The .5mm Oversized For N/A)
Fine Tuning(To Top off Your whole Set-Up you should look Into and ECU to Fine Tune Your Set-Up, Leaning Your A/F Ratio To That of 12.5-13 is Suppose To Be Optimal for N/A )
Mods To Make The KA Feel Good - Not So Much Power:
Clutch(I Prefer One That grips at least 50HP More Then What I'm Making)
Lightweight Flywheel(Reduce Rotational Mass and Resistance To Rev Up - Revs Faster, Not higher)
Lightweight Driveshaft(Aluminum, Carbon Can Be used But it's Very Expensive)
LSD(More Grip = More Power To The Ground)
Lightweight Internals(Well since High C/R Pistons Add HP I don't think it could be here, But Lighter Then Stock Rods and a Knifed and Polished Crank can Give Better Response and Rev Up Faster)
Things Resisting Power:
Electric Fans(Remove Clutch-Fan - Less Resistance)
Power Steering(I Like Mine, but it can be Removed)
A/C(You Can Remove It but it gets damn hot here so, NO!)
EGR(Doesn't Do me Much So It's Gone)
Intake Mani Coolant Bypass(Bypass The Coolant to the Intake Mani cause all it does is heat it up when you get going so, useless to me)
Secondary Intake Butterfly's(Used For Low End, But Lets Face it, w/ a 96mm Stroke it's got more then enough Low-end)
Synthetic Fluids(Said To Reduce Resistance But IDK, Worth A Try)
Charcoal Canister(Well Doesn't Really Add or Resist Power but it's dead weight so)
Crank Scraper/Windage Tray(It cuts windage In The Crank Case and Can Free Up about 5hp)
Also Reducing Unsprung Weight:
Suspension Components(I don't think they're much but whatever)
Rims and Tires(Lighter than Stock but Giving more Grip, is a definite Plus)
Probably The Best Mods You Could Ever Do: Weight Reduction
I know there are flaws but, I would greatly appreciate your help/corrections
I figured I'd help all the noobs out
Power Mods:
Header(The Intake and Exhaust Mani Seem To Be The Problem Area's Of The KA So I would Assume a Decent Gain from This)
Test Pipe or Hi-Flow Cat(Random Tech is said to Flow the Best)
Exhaust(More Flow = More Power.)
Custom USRI(Ultra Short Ram Intake - The One that goes where the Battery is suppose to be, Increase Flow & Response - Or Any Intake Will Do)
KAE Engine High C/R Pistons(KAE Pistons Will Give High C/R Then what rated for The KAE Engine, i.e. 10.0 C/R KAE Pistons on the DE may yield 12.0C/R? - Also Increasing Bore = More Displacement, Doing some Research It seems that The Valve Reliefs Do Not Align so Using Aftermarket Cams w/ SOHC Pistons should not be done)
Lightweight Pulleys(Larger Diameter Can Also Reduce Resistance)
Port & Polish Head(Remove As little material As possible but smooth Rough Surfaces - Increases Velocity)
Decking/Shaving Head(Yield Higher C/R)
Advance Timing(I would Advance No More then 5*, 3* To Be Safe)
Some Sort Of Intake Manifold(ITB's Is About The Best N/A intake There is, If Not Porting and Matching The Intake Can Yield Good Gains Also)
Throttle Body Spacer(Seems To Work For Other Cars So Why Not Try it)
Throttle Body Boring(Increases Response and Flow)
Upgrading Fuel system(Really Not Needed But I'm sure after all these Years Your Systems Getting Old So Do it a Favor, and Upgrade Maybe)
Upgrading Your Ignition(More/Stronger/Better spark = Better Burning Fuel, so........)
Cams(I would Only Go Up To 264's, I Like Having Smooth Idle, Yield 12HP?)
Valve Springs & Retainers(stiffer Springs Allow for More RPM and Resist Coil Bind, Interchangeable with CA, VG, and RB20)
Valves(Over Sized Valves Allow for More Air Flow, But Going Too Big will Reduce The Flow Velocity, SO Bigger Isn't Always Better, Great For Turbo Thought, i Would Stay in The .5mm Oversized For N/A)
Fine Tuning(To Top off Your whole Set-Up you should look Into and ECU to Fine Tune Your Set-Up, Leaning Your A/F Ratio To That of 12.5-13 is Suppose To Be Optimal for N/A )
Mods To Make The KA Feel Good - Not So Much Power:
Clutch(I Prefer One That grips at least 50HP More Then What I'm Making)
Lightweight Flywheel(Reduce Rotational Mass and Resistance To Rev Up - Revs Faster, Not higher)
Lightweight Driveshaft(Aluminum, Carbon Can Be used But it's Very Expensive)
LSD(More Grip = More Power To The Ground)
Lightweight Internals(Well since High C/R Pistons Add HP I don't think it could be here, But Lighter Then Stock Rods and a Knifed and Polished Crank can Give Better Response and Rev Up Faster)
Things Resisting Power:
Electric Fans(Remove Clutch-Fan - Less Resistance)
Power Steering(I Like Mine, but it can be Removed)
A/C(You Can Remove It but it gets damn hot here so, NO!)
EGR(Doesn't Do me Much So It's Gone)
Intake Mani Coolant Bypass(Bypass The Coolant to the Intake Mani cause all it does is heat it up when you get going so, useless to me)
Secondary Intake Butterfly's(Used For Low End, But Lets Face it, w/ a 96mm Stroke it's got more then enough Low-end)
Synthetic Fluids(Said To Reduce Resistance But IDK, Worth A Try)
Charcoal Canister(Well Doesn't Really Add or Resist Power but it's dead weight so)
Crank Scraper/Windage Tray(It cuts windage In The Crank Case and Can Free Up about 5hp)
Also Reducing Unsprung Weight:
Suspension Components(I don't think they're much but whatever)
Rims and Tires(Lighter than Stock but Giving more Grip, is a definite Plus)
Probably The Best Mods You Could Ever Do: Weight Reduction
I know there are flaws but, I would greatly appreciate your help/corrections
12-25-2007, 09:51 AM
#2
You should add work that can be and should be done to the bottom end.
Removal of the KA24de girdle, for replacement of the ka24de individual main caps from the KA24de truck. KA24e blocks don't use a girdle.
To focus the bottom end on power and reliabilty.
ATI super dampener with the dampener bolt drilled through to journal 1 to releave the crank of crazy harmonics that grind the bearings and journals and add friction. This can help your rev as well as increase hp as stated from ATI's web site.
Drill crank snout journal, as well as center main journal, and flywheel journal (if needed to flywheel journal) with OIL HOLES. This reduces friction, increases rev, and a small amount of power to the rev range. Of course this will help reduce friction and viscosity.
There are also other options in crank shafts such as Brian crower,and AMS fully counterweighted cranks. Fully counterweighted cranks can effectively pull the torque band all the way to redline as well as show small HP gains. Not mention that the Harmonics of the crank have changed.
You will not have a high HP, high rev KA using the Gseries MAF (G60 OBD1-G70 OBD2). Gseries MAFS are more like restrictor plates in my opinion. G series MAFs are smaller than the 65mm taper of the KA24de TB. The best MAF to use is the N60 MAF. Remember that the ecu must be programmed for use of the N60 MAF, or infact you can use and SAFC with a 2in-5out.
Increase your peak power to 6500RPM, rather than the 5800RPM peak that the G series MAFS make. There will be losses in low end torque with the use of the N60, but the rev range is unbelievable as if it brings your KA back to life.
Octanes , Octanes , and more Octanes!!!!!!!!!
Our engines multiply power by reducing knock and ping using higher grade higher energy Octanes (note that not all Octanes are high energy/BTU).
If you have problems getting any thing other than 91 octane you can always mix toulene and xyleneYOU MUST USE CAUTION, WEAR GLOVES AND A RESPIRATOR!!!!. They are aromatic compounds already blended into gasoline and have a stonger carbon, and hydrogen chain than gasoline. Which makes more BTU than gasoline itself!!!!
I use 4,1/2 gallons of 91 octane, with 1/3 gallon of xylene, and 2/3 gallon of toulene to make a high powered, high BTU 95.5octane. I tune on 95.5 Rdon Octan (AKI) because I use 91 octane for the street, and 96-100Octane at the track. I tune for my wide range of octane fuel use. 1 gallon of toulene is about $19.00, and 1 gallon of xylene cost $18.00, which you can get at you local ACE hard ware or paint supply store.
You can always order VP racing gas in 100Octane (5 gallon), and Torco Concentrated racing fuel and blend upto 104 octane (5 gallon). These are much more effecient in making power than over the shelf 16 ounce bottles of octane boosters.
I also stress use the right plugs!!!!! I use Iridium spark plugs for reliability and maximum spark, but Platinum core spark plugs can do just as good. Copper cores are not well for aggresive advanced timing, and the plugs run HOT. Hot plugs are inefficient plugs so stay with Platinum or Iridium (merly based on my own opinion and experience). Although KA24e engines seem to run very well using coper core NGK's.
When porting the TB stay with some basic fundamentals that deal with the maximum CFM that your engine allows.
8.6:1~10.3:1 Compression KA's don't need to port the TB/butterfly more than60~62mm.
10.3:1 and higher compression can go from 60~65mm, it's how you build your KA and what you demand from it in rev and power, normally when you enlarge your diameter sizes you can decrease torque and sometimes make no HP gains, so select you diameter size wisely!!
Do not port the crap out of the KA24de head!!!!! The head is already efficient enough to make 225whp Naturally Aspirated!!! I would rather stress a slight polish, and removal of small imperfections to the casting. Better cams should defenitely be used. I recomend PDM/COLT cams, and Brian Crower. Remember as you increase duration on high compression it can limit your engine from using streetable 91octane. Major porting will decrease intake velocity whioch is a major factor in making the hp you want.
I do strees port/extrude of the KA24e and KA24de intake manifolds as there are many imperfections that are through out the whole runner.
Removal of the KA24de girdle, for replacement of the ka24de individual main caps from the KA24de truck. KA24e blocks don't use a girdle.
To focus the bottom end on power and reliabilty.
ATI super dampener with the dampener bolt drilled through to journal 1 to releave the crank of crazy harmonics that grind the bearings and journals and add friction. This can help your rev as well as increase hp as stated from ATI's web site.
Drill crank snout journal, as well as center main journal, and flywheel journal (if needed to flywheel journal) with OIL HOLES. This reduces friction, increases rev, and a small amount of power to the rev range. Of course this will help reduce friction and viscosity.
There are also other options in crank shafts such as Brian crower,and AMS fully counterweighted cranks. Fully counterweighted cranks can effectively pull the torque band all the way to redline as well as show small HP gains. Not mention that the Harmonics of the crank have changed.
You will not have a high HP, high rev KA using the Gseries MAF (G60 OBD1-G70 OBD2). Gseries MAFS are more like restrictor plates in my opinion. G series MAFs are smaller than the 65mm taper of the KA24de TB. The best MAF to use is the N60 MAF. Remember that the ecu must be programmed for use of the N60 MAF, or infact you can use and SAFC with a 2in-5out.
Increase your peak power to 6500RPM, rather than the 5800RPM peak that the G series MAFS make. There will be losses in low end torque with the use of the N60, but the rev range is unbelievable as if it brings your KA back to life.
Octanes , Octanes , and more Octanes!!!!!!!!!
Our engines multiply power by reducing knock and ping using higher grade higher energy Octanes (note that not all Octanes are high energy/BTU).
If you have problems getting any thing other than 91 octane you can always mix toulene and xyleneYOU MUST USE CAUTION, WEAR GLOVES AND A RESPIRATOR!!!!. They are aromatic compounds already blended into gasoline and have a stonger carbon, and hydrogen chain than gasoline. Which makes more BTU than gasoline itself!!!!
I use 4,1/2 gallons of 91 octane, with 1/3 gallon of xylene, and 2/3 gallon of toulene to make a high powered, high BTU 95.5octane. I tune on 95.5 Rdon Octan (AKI) because I use 91 octane for the street, and 96-100Octane at the track. I tune for my wide range of octane fuel use. 1 gallon of toulene is about $19.00, and 1 gallon of xylene cost $18.00, which you can get at you local ACE hard ware or paint supply store.
You can always order VP racing gas in 100Octane (5 gallon), and Torco Concentrated racing fuel and blend upto 104 octane (5 gallon). These are much more effecient in making power than over the shelf 16 ounce bottles of octane boosters.
I also stress use the right plugs!!!!! I use Iridium spark plugs for reliability and maximum spark, but Platinum core spark plugs can do just as good. Copper cores are not well for aggresive advanced timing, and the plugs run HOT. Hot plugs are inefficient plugs so stay with Platinum or Iridium (merly based on my own opinion and experience). Although KA24e engines seem to run very well using coper core NGK's.
When porting the TB stay with some basic fundamentals that deal with the maximum CFM that your engine allows.
8.6:1~10.3:1 Compression KA's don't need to port the TB/butterfly more than60~62mm.
10.3:1 and higher compression can go from 60~65mm, it's how you build your KA and what you demand from it in rev and power, normally when you enlarge your diameter sizes you can decrease torque and sometimes make no HP gains, so select you diameter size wisely!!
Do not port the crap out of the KA24de head!!!!! The head is already efficient enough to make 225whp Naturally Aspirated!!! I would rather stress a slight polish, and removal of small imperfections to the casting. Better cams should defenitely be used. I recomend PDM/COLT cams, and Brian Crower. Remember as you increase duration on high compression it can limit your engine from using streetable 91octane. Major porting will decrease intake velocity whioch is a major factor in making the hp you want.
I do strees port/extrude of the KA24e and KA24de intake manifolds as there are many imperfections that are through out the whole runner.
Last edited by BigVinnie; 12-25-2007 at 10:10 AM.
12-25-2007, 10:53 AM
#3
When porting the TB stay with some basic fundamentals that deal with the maximum CFM that your engine allows.
8.6:1~10.3:1 Compression KA's don't need to port the TB/butterfly more than60~62mm.
10.3:1 and higher compression can go from 60~65mm, it's how you build your KA and what you demand from it in rev and power, normally when you enlarge your diameter sizes you can decrease torque and sometimes make no HP gains, so select you diameter size wisely!!
8.6:1~10.3:1 Compression KA's don't need to port the TB/butterfly more than60~62mm.
10.3:1 and higher compression can go from 60~65mm, it's how you build your KA and what you demand from it in rev and power, normally when you enlarge your diameter sizes you can decrease torque and sometimes make no HP gains, so select you diameter size wisely!!
How Would an custom ITB w/ 45mm ports do w/ an DE on SOHC Pistons(11.x:1 C/R) and the 240/248 cam set-up?
Last edited by 240-kid; 12-25-2007 at 11:05 AM.
12-25-2007, 11:14 AM
#4
The other difficulty is weather or not the ITB's by the makers design will use a plenum or not. Theres just so many methods to tuning ITB's I can't give you a direct answer.
Some say standalone with 32X32 resolution is the way to go while there are others that can use an 8X8 resolution and make some good HP numbers.
I've chosen to stick with the TB runner configuration, to me it's simplified and easier for myself to work with because I have delt with it much longer.
To date I've made more power than the ITB set up's on stock compression so to me I wouldn't chose to change my set up from plenum TB based to ITB based. No one has proven through the use of a dyno that ITB's are truly better than Plenum/TB based.
There is just so much diferent methods of tuning that it is a hard issue to prove and every builder /tuner is different.
There is a book on AMAZON.COM called 4 stroke performance tuning. It gets into fluid dynamics, squish and quench, and timing with a/fr's. It's an excellent book on all the principles and fundementals of building a high performance 4 stroke engine. Infact I know many dyno shops and engine shops that make there interns read this book!! It should almost be treated as a bible!!
Last edited by BigVinnie; 12-25-2007 at 11:38 AM.
12-25-2007, 11:32 AM
#5
Depends on your tuning method, for those that go MAFless it can become difficult. It's a whole other can of worms.
The other difficulty is weather or not the ITB's by the makers design will use a plenum or not. Theres just so many methods to tuning ITB's I can't give you a direct answer.
Some say standalone with 32X32 resolution is the way to go while there are others that can use an 8X8 resolution and make some good HP numbers.
I've chosen to stick with the TB runner configuration, to me it's simplified and easier for myself to work with because I have delt with it much longer.
To date I've made more power than the ITB set up's on stock compression to date so to me I wouldn't chose to change my set up from plenum TB based to ITB based. No one has proven through the use of a dyno that ITB's are truly better than Plenum/TB based.
There is just so much diferent methods of tuning that it is a hard issue to prove and every builder /tuner is different.
There is a book on AMAZON.COM called 4 stroke performance tuning. It gets into fluid dynamics, squish and quench, and timing with a/fr's. It's an excellent book on all the principles and fundementals of building a high performance 4 stroke engine. Infact I know many dyno shops and engine shops that make there interns read this book!!
The other difficulty is weather or not the ITB's by the makers design will use a plenum or not. Theres just so many methods to tuning ITB's I can't give you a direct answer.
Some say standalone with 32X32 resolution is the way to go while there are others that can use an 8X8 resolution and make some good HP numbers.
I've chosen to stick with the TB runner configuration, to me it's simplified and easier for myself to work with because I have delt with it much longer.
To date I've made more power than the ITB set up's on stock compression to date so to me I wouldn't chose to change my set up from plenum TB based to ITB based. No one has proven through the use of a dyno that ITB's are truly better than Plenum/TB based.
There is just so much diferent methods of tuning that it is a hard issue to prove and every builder /tuner is different.
There is a book on AMAZON.COM called 4 stroke performance tuning. It gets into fluid dynamics, squish and quench, and timing with a/fr's. It's an excellent book on all the principles and fundementals of building a high performance 4 stroke engine. Infact I know many dyno shops and engine shops that make there interns read this book!!
Custom ITB
45mm Bores
Running a Plenum
N60-N62 MAF
AEM EMS
370cc Inj. & Walbro
I think that's it
12-26-2007, 12:59 PM
#7
After ecu tuning the 240/248's max out at about 170WHP + or- 6 hp from the octane fuel you give it, thats after you have added every bolt on plus a 3" exhaust.
I wouldn't be surprised seeing the JWT cams making 195 WHP on stock 9.5:1 compression. In 1998 I saw this guy dyno his KA24de. I'm pretty sure as I recall correctly with 104octane, an ecu tune, and all bolt ons he maxed it to 198WHP. I wish I had that dyno to show right now..
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