SUMMARY: Car runs great, then I broke the MAF connector, the car runs like crap for about 30 sec under 2000 RPM with no MAF, Sodered the connection on the old MAF, didnt fix it. Then I bought a new MAF, still runs like crap; like it did with the one I tried to fix. Car runs close to the same without any MAF and with new MAF, only difference is it doesnt die at idle.


DETAILS:

I was being a retard the other day cleaning some stuff on the air filter and box on my 93 240SX 5 Speed, SE

So when I was removing the MAF I unscrewed the 2 small screws on the top of the MAF near the connector and broke the connection taking it off, ( I didnt know how to get the clip off, but now I do! )

I cranked the car after trying to fix it and the connection was bad and the car was running like crap and dying at idle, I only ran it for about 30 Sec. Obviously dumping way to much fuel into the motor. Naturally as I broke the MAF and it was running without one.

Also when I playing with the connection that I broke with the car on (ON, but not running) i could hear the connection clicking when I moved it back and forth, however the clicking sounded like it was coming from somewhere to the left. Like click on then off, So I take apart the MAF and soder the connectors back to working order.

I install the old MAF back on the car, start it and it doesnt die at idle however it does run like crap (RICH) still and doesnt rev over 2000, there is also a large amount of smoke coming from exhaust, smells like it's running rich. It also runs very very ruff and the motor shakes badly. I tried to let it run some of the fuel out but it didnt get any better after about a minute i turn it off.

So I buy a new MAF from a reliable source. Install it, Put BRAND NEW NGK Plugs in, start it up. SAME PROBLEMS! So I take it there is something else wrong. I check the plugs, Im getting plenty of spark, check the plugs, they smell like gas badly so I know it's running rich.

I get no check engine lights. I tried to see if I could hear the clicking noise again by unplugging and plugging the clip from the MAF. I cant get it to do that.

I also took the battery out for about 3 days waiting for my New MAF so unless I need to reset the ecu another way... I thought that would reset it.

PLEASE HELP ME I'm NEW TO NISSANS!

 

It's running rich because it's not getting a maf signal. This is called limp mode, closed loop.

The clicking is your maf relays, that is normal.

When you broke the connector, it sounds like it shorted. Check to see how much volatage you are getting at the MAF and search for bad grounds.

 

Wow, you're my hero DriftX.

 

What should the voltage read if that's what's wrong?

 

Im getting a code 12: MAF Sensor

 

I also tried swaping the ECCS Relay (Green in the fuse box under the hood), with the one for the fuel pump, Im still getting the same ECU Code for the MAF.

 

What exactly did you do to correct the problem. I'm still having the same issue on my CA18DET swap. I'm getting 14v for power, and around 6v for signal, but still can't rev over 2000rpms. Already tried cleaning the existing MAF, but still no luck.

I'm planning on buying a new 90 ka24e MAF from autozone next weekend, would like to avoid it if all possible.

Thanks for any input!

 

well I ran a Volt Meter to the three wires on the MAF.

Black w/ White Stripe = 12V (heard this is normal)

ALL White is giving me = 12V ( I dont think this is right either, I think it's suppose to be 1.5V

ALL Black = 11.11 : this is suppose to be the ground - I ran the ground from the MAF to the ECU and still get the same problem so I dont think it's the harness.

I beginning to think that my ECU is FRIED?!

IF anyone wants to donate one to my cause I'll pay for shipping plus $10.00

Any suggestions?

 

Trevr dont but a MAF from Autozone - get one from Ebay or call this shop in Tampa, FL. 813-231-7223. I dont remember the name of shop, but I got one for 40.00

 

I did a reverse search on that phone number. Details are as follows:

X At Racing
1032 E Hillsborough Ave
Tampa, FL 33604

I'll give them a call and see what they have available.

Here is a clip of what's going on with my ca


Boost Gauge reads 15 vacuum under idle, and drops to zero under throttle before choking out around 2k rpms. A/F Gauge reads a stoic mixture, and doesn't change between idle or throttle. This problem is really starting to frustrate me, I may just break down at take it in the a local mechanic shop. Anyways, thanks for the tip on the MAF sensor Paul, highly appreciated!