NA Motor Discussions regarding N/A KA24E, KA24DE, and SR20DE

Project Car wont start (KA24DE)

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Old Oct 12, 2008 | 11:52 AM
  #1  
Lord Umoja's Avatar
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Project Car wont start (KA24DE)

Bought a project car recenly with a bad(as in didn't run but owner didn't try to get it running) motor, but hopes of it working. Today I'm trying to get the motor running and having an issue. It cranks over fine but does not catch and run. I have checked the spark using a test plug (The thing you ground with the clip and watch for a spark) and also checked the plugs that they were correct and gapped correctly according to advance auto. I also checked the fuel system and know im getting fuel all the way into the fuel rail. I messed with the distributor and even running it through its entire range, I get nothing. It looks like spark is fine, and all I can think of is one of the injectors is not flowing. The previous owner said the motor was swapped in and ran before the swap, but didn't after. It is a 92 KA24DE in a 93 coupe chassis. Any ideas?

Last edited by Lord Umoja; Oct 12, 2008 at 11:58 AM.
Old Oct 12, 2008 | 12:24 PM
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you can use any OBD1 (91-94) ecu only difference between them all are slight tune differences.

do an OBD check and see what codes it throws at ya.

i second the compression also.
Old Oct 12, 2008 | 01:53 PM
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even if one of ur injectors wasnt flowing ur engine would still start an just run on the three cylinders, id thuroughly look over ur wiring harness, connectors wires ect.. and check for codes an see what comes up and like biggamehit said u can use ne of those ecu's, was the ecu swapped with the engine or did u just use the one in the shell? do u no if that ecu was running right in the first place?
Old Oct 12, 2008 | 03:25 PM
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The previous owner said they just dropped in the motor with out swapping ecu's. I did a compression check......40psi on the front cylinder, didnt even bother testing the others. I pulled off the valve cover to take a look at the setup and there is oil/water mix up there. Looks like someone poured skim milk into the top of the motor. I think it may be the head gasket, so I'm going to treat that issue and if it still doesnt work, the car will just sit until I can afford the SR20DET. I bought the car assuming the motor was a paper weight, so I'm not really out anything in the long run. I figured it was going to sit in the garage waiting for a new motor and Silvia nose pieces.
Old Oct 12, 2008 | 04:18 PM
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yep HG
Old Nov 3, 2008 | 12:00 PM
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The first thing that I would do is check what codes the ECU are throwing, then if that is fine I would check the timing. Check the oil to see if it is milky looking or clean. Is there an alarm on the car that might be killing the starter.
Was it just a simple swap or did this person have the cams out replacing the timing chain or anything like that? more info would be nice.

Last edited by dkdeleon; Nov 3, 2008 at 12:03 PM.
Old Nov 4, 2008 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by dkdeleon
The first thing that I would do is check what codes the ECU are throwing, then if that is fine I would check the timing. Check the oil to see if it is milky looking or clean. Is there an alarm on the car that might be killing the starter.
Was it just a simple swap or did this person have the cams out replacing the timing chain or anything like that? more info would be nice.
I've traced fuel into the injectors, traced spark into the plugs, it has 40psi compression in the front cylinder. The previous owner CLAIMED a straight swap but alot of stuff was done half assed. At this point the motor is going up for sale to who ever wants it. I'm getting an SR20 later so I see no reason to invest money in a motor I dont need. The engine bay is already partially stripped, wioth the ECU and harness out so I'm not going to even worry about it anymore. If someone buys it and wants to try and fix it thats fine, but right not its just a lump in the bay.

BTW drained the trans, the oil and the rad this weekend. The trans fluid was brand new but the drain plug was covered in metal shavings. The engine oil was brand new, never run, but reeked of gas. Not a sign of water in the oil......OR the radiator for that matter.......

Last edited by Lord Umoja; Nov 4, 2008 at 02:13 PM.
Old Nov 5, 2008 | 01:43 AM
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40 psi is bad very bad the lowest psi level should not be lower that 155. with a 10 psi spread across other cly.

ps

the max is 175 btw
Old Nov 5, 2008 | 08:55 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Biggamehit
40 psi is bad very bad the lowest psi level should not be lower that 155. with a 10 psi spread across other cly.

ps

the max is 175 btw
Figured...


So..Anyone wanna buy a used KA24DE, doesn't run but seems a fixer upper

j/k Ill probably part it out on here unless I can find a local who wants to try thier luck at it or needs a project big bore motor.
Old Nov 6, 2008 | 08:38 PM
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you should check compression in the rest of the cylinders before you part it out. if the rest have good compression then it should just be a matter of replacing the head gasket and maybe a valve job while the head is off.
Old Nov 7, 2008 | 01:10 AM
  #11  
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Uhmm Hmmm Ummmm HMMMM
Old Nov 7, 2008 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by jramosthe1st!
you should check compression in the rest of the cylinders before you part it out. if the rest have good compression then it should just be a matter of replacing the head gasket and maybe a valve job while the head is off.
Thanks for the encouragement, but as of last week the wiring harness is out of the car and the fluids are drained from the motor and trans.
Old Nov 7, 2008 | 10:32 PM
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in that case forget i said anything.


btw nice car.
Old Nov 8, 2008 | 12:21 AM
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dammit... i was going to ask you if you checked you Glo Plugs
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