NA Motor Discussions regarding N/A KA24E, KA24DE, and SR20DE

Solution To Throttle Response!!

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Old 11-04-2002, 11:52 PM
  #46  
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Originally posted by AceInHole
like i said, if it works for you that's cool, but i thought people should be aware that it might not be all that it was blown up to be.

. I'm definitely not saying that factory spec is best at all, but using factory equipment, the specifications are there to outline the "optimal" performance settings.
there ya have it. with out re-mapping the ecu specs the closest thing you could have to instant response is this simple couple-nut-turn. me bein me, and me not a fool, i still don't buy the ecu thing. but then again i own an S13. SOHC at that. you said it your self, you own an S14.it's all good though.


what wheels are those?
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Old 11-05-2002, 03:36 PM
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Originally posted by rudeboy
there ya have it. with out re-mapping the ecu specs the closest thing you could have to instant response is this simple couple-nut-turn. me bein me, and me not a fool, i still don't buy the ecu thing. but then again i own an S13. SOHC at that. you said it your self, you own an S14.it's all good though.


what wheels are those?
I'll have to see if my friend still has his SOHC engine in his car and see if he can't try and test the whole thing.

The way the ECU retards timing on WOT from a start or low rev is that the TPS senses the throttle position, giving the ECU an idea of how quickly the throttle is being depressed. My point was that if you somehow were able to hide that from the ECU, it wouldn't retard the timing, but you'd most likely throw a code, and the engine would go into a failsafe mode.

I autocross though, so I need to have some play in the throttle to give me a little more room to modulate throttle around corners, or for heel-toe downshifts (rare in solo II).
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Old 11-05-2002, 03:43 PM
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Lightbulb hmmm. . . .

Hey Ace,
It looks like ill be back up sooner than i thought to watch you kick MR. STRONG's *** on the track. . . should be fun, see ya soon
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Old 11-05-2002, 05:31 PM
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cool. have your friend test it out and give us the info.

i can see where you might have a problem heal-toein bevause the throttle opens/closes much quicker then normal.

but like i said, i drive my car hard, like i'm always racing and have yet to see a code pop-up yet.

i know in japan they sell a larger diameter cable wheel that effectivly creates the same response. it's like $80 US.
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Old 11-05-2002, 08:14 PM
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Originally posted by rudeboy
cool. have your friend test it out and give us the info.

i can see where you might have a problem heal-toein bevause the throttle opens/closes much quicker then normal.

but like i said, i drive my car hard, like i'm always racing and have yet to see a code pop-up yet.

i know in japan they sell a larger diameter cable wheel that effectivly creates the same response. it's like $80 US.
i'd wonder if the larger diameter cable is for larger or more highly sprung throttle bodies.... another reason might be the need to fight pressure built up by a turbo engine in the intake manifold, and the need to spring the throttle body heavier to compensate. i don't think most of the high HP KA-T's are using larger throttle bodies, or having problems with the throttle cable though. i'll ask my friend with the built KA what he'd think of a heavier cable.

Edit: asked a guy pushing around 400rwhp out of a KA about his throttle cable, and he says he doesn't have problems with response and that the stock throttle body is adequate for the 18psi he pushes normally. He's pushed 27psi on occasion out of his car too (actually spiked 30 once while doing so)... :shrug: I'd say that if there's a problem with the throttle body or a need for a thicker cable, someone with that kind of setup would know about it.... or maybe it's just DOHC KA's??

Last edited by AceInHole; 11-05-2002 at 08:24 PM.
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Old 11-05-2002, 08:24 PM
  #51  
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i think you mis understood me. i ment the cable wheel it'self is larger. it does the same thing as adjusting the nuts but more effectivly.decreses pedal movement and increses the angle on the throttle body "flap".
so basically less pedal movement will increase throttle movement ratio.
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Old 11-06-2002, 02:52 PM
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Originally posted by rudeboy
i think you mis understood me. i ment the cable wheel it'self is larger. it does the same thing as adjusting the nuts but more effectivly.decreses pedal movement and increses the angle on the throttle body "flap".
so basically less pedal movement will increase throttle movement ratio.
yeah... didn't notice the word "wheel". lol. as for a larger wheel decreasing throttle movement.... that doesn't make sense? if you think about it, a smaller wheel would increase the throttle to pedal ratio, since the cable has to be pulled a shorter distance from a closed to wide open throttle. a larger wheel would actually take more pedal movement since it has to be "thrown" a greater distance along its arc. i'm guessing that if this is the case, and i'm not missing any more words here, then it would be for the reason I like having a small amount of play near closed throttle: to have more range in modulation of the throttle plate.
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Old 11-07-2002, 08:35 PM
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i think a larger wheel makes more sense. hard to explain but: a larger wheel would pull more cable with one turn than a smaller wheel would.
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Old 11-08-2002, 01:43 PM
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Originally posted by spitz7985
i think a larger wheel makes more sense. hard to explain but: a larger wheel would pull more cable with one turn than a smaller wheel would.
is the throttle pulley pulling the cable?? in that case you'd get faster/ more pedal movement per throttle output. i'm pretty sure that you control the throttle with the pedal though, in which case a larger wheel on the throttle body would require more pedal travel per range of throttle.
if you wanted more torque on the wheel, then yes you'd use a larger wheel. if you wanted the wheel to move faster per pedal movement, you'd want it to be smaller.

when something makes more sense it's usually easier to explain, and you actually explained it yourself pretty well: larger wheel = pull more cable = requires more cable pull from the pedal to turn the wheel, thus you'd need to press the pedal more, not less. if you reverse that, comparing the smaller wheel to the larger wheel, the smaller wheel requires less pull from the cable, and thus less pedal travel, or the same amount of pedal movement on the smaller wheel (compared to the larger) will affect the throttle more.
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Old 11-16-2002, 08:25 PM
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MR. STRONG dosen't race on tracks MR. STRONG, dorthy,I-90, I-190

would you like to try one one of those?
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Old 11-17-2002, 11:22 AM
  #56  
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Originally posted by MR. STRONG
MR. STRONG dosen't race on tracks MR. STRONG, dorthy,I-90, I-190

would you like to try one one of those?
im not sure what your trying to say, but if your talkin about racing on the highway, at least try it on the merit, but still, how can you see who the better driver is on a highway. . .
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Old 11-17-2002, 03:18 PM
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Originally posted by MR. STRONG
MR. STRONG dosen't race on tracks MR. STRONG, dorthy,I-90, I-190

would you like to try one one of those?
well, sorry, ACEINHOLE doesn't race against idiots. ACEINHOLE competes in real races.

wouldn't you like to be able to call yourself a real racer one day?
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Old 11-17-2002, 05:23 PM
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Originally posted by AceInHole
well, sorry, ACEINHOLE doesn't race against idiots. ACEINHOLE competes in real races.

wouldn't you like to be able to call yourself a real racer one day?
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Old 11-18-2002, 12:44 PM
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Originally posted by AceInHole
is the throttle pulley pulling the cable?? in that case you'd get faster/ more pedal movement per throttle output. i'm pretty sure that you control the throttle with the pedal though, in which case a larger wheel on the throttle body would require more pedal travel per range of throttle.
if you wanted more torque on the wheel, then yes you'd use a larger wheel. if you wanted the wheel to move faster per pedal movement, you'd want it to be smaller.
yeah, i was thinking wrong. i checked the FSM and you're right. my bad.

why would you want more torque on the wheel?
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