New to the Nismo World!!
05-07-2009, 07:26 PM
#31
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 32
Just throwing this out there, you won't be able to fix all your problems at once, unless you know exactly what's wrong with your car, and have the tools and time to replace or repair parts on your car. Take it one step at a time.
Everytime I purchase a car, I go through this process:
-Oil Change
-Mission fluid change
-Diff fluid change
-Replace Sparkplugs
-Replace Sparkplug Wires (if your car comes equipped)
-Replace Cap and Rotor (if your car comes equipped)
-Replace every and all Vacuum Lines (even if they look good)
-Replace Coolant Temp Sensor and Radiator Cap
-Replace all squeeze clamps with hose clamps which require you to use a screwdriver or socket to tighten
-Clean out MAF sensor (if your car comes equipped)
-Fabricate and install Grounding Wires
Although a costly process, it lightly refreshes your engine for the most part and if they're are any idle issues, it usually fixes it (all cars i've owned had ****ty vacuum lines)
Since you said you had 2 vacuum lines running to nothing, search online and grab a PDF version of the CA18DET engine layout and see where they go to. If I have time, i'll see what I can dig up.
Where are you stationed at?
Open injectors can be the problem, the CA18DET is an older engine, but i've seen FJ20DET's that have never had injector issues. Could be fouled out plugs. can you take pics of the plugs?
Does your engine run rough at all or shake a considerable amount?
How mechanically inclined are you?
If you haven't already, buy tools! Craftsmen tool set (the ~100 piece) in the big black plastic case is a good starter.
Everytime I purchase a car, I go through this process:
-Oil Change
-Mission fluid change
-Diff fluid change
-Replace Sparkplugs
-Replace Sparkplug Wires (if your car comes equipped)
-Replace Cap and Rotor (if your car comes equipped)
-Replace every and all Vacuum Lines (even if they look good)
-Replace Coolant Temp Sensor and Radiator Cap
-Replace all squeeze clamps with hose clamps which require you to use a screwdriver or socket to tighten
-Clean out MAF sensor (if your car comes equipped)
-Fabricate and install Grounding Wires
Although a costly process, it lightly refreshes your engine for the most part and if they're are any idle issues, it usually fixes it (all cars i've owned had ****ty vacuum lines)
Since you said you had 2 vacuum lines running to nothing, search online and grab a PDF version of the CA18DET engine layout and see where they go to. If I have time, i'll see what I can dig up.
Where are you stationed at?
Open injectors can be the problem, the CA18DET is an older engine, but i've seen FJ20DET's that have never had injector issues. Could be fouled out plugs. can you take pics of the plugs?
Does your engine run rough at all or shake a considerable amount?
How mechanically inclined are you?
If you haven't already, buy tools! Craftsmen tool set (the ~100 piece) in the big black plastic case is a good starter.
Last edited by YangpaNemsay; 05-11-2009 at 10:08 AM.
05-07-2009, 10:27 PM
#33
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 32
Wideband only really tells you what A/R ratio you are running. It really doesn't fix the problem. You could tune it and get it to a more reasonable level, but if it's something else, you'll just be smothering the other problem instead of addressing it. It's nice to have, but not necessary to fix it.
05-08-2009, 11:50 AM
#34
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 23
see yang- this is why id like to meet up with you this weekend. lol. jeez. ur like a walking Haynes manual!
Im stationed here on the Fleet ASW base, on North Harbor Drive, in Point Loma, 2 minutes past the airport, 5 minutes from downtown. I'll be working down at the 32nd street Navy Base Auto Hobby Shop this weekend.
I had a guy with a few 240's and what seemed like good knowledge of Nissans take a look at my car last night. He played with a few of the vacuum lines, looping them into one another and replaces one large hose with a smaller diameter hose. It idles a little better now. Instead of 2200 rpms, its down to about 1500 when warm. The jerkiness isnt as bad in the low rpms as it was, but its definitely still there.
I replaced the plugs yesterday, but failed to get a picture of the old ones. They werent horrible looking, Ive seen worse. The bottom ring down by the tip was the only part that had soot on it.
I also took a look into my stock bov last night. I didnt know I had one to be honest- basically because Ive never heard it. Needless to say, I havent heard it in the least because its full of oil. Im assuming the seals on my turbo are shot, and by the physical appearance of it, I believe my turbo is on its last legs.
Now granted, I am new to this whole Nissan game, so Id definitely need a second, more educated opinion on the topic. But im pretty much ready for worst. Mentally, not financially. Kinda sucks, but oh well. The car has a lot of potential.
Yang- I know a good bit about cars, at least I think I do. lol. I did my engine swap in my Integra with a buddy of mine over a weekend, it being my first time even working on a car. So idk... theres always more to learn and I try to be as big of a sponge as I can.
Oh, and no, my car doesnt shake and the idle isnt rough. its very smooth in fact. And when my friend was messing with my vacuum lines last night, he said the one may have been to a boost controller- which is believable because the car is running 10psi.
I have some tools, but not nearly a considerable amount. Just some sockets and shiz, and other misc. tools.
But i definitely appreciate the help guys. Yang- sent you a PM
Im stationed here on the Fleet ASW base, on North Harbor Drive, in Point Loma, 2 minutes past the airport, 5 minutes from downtown. I'll be working down at the 32nd street Navy Base Auto Hobby Shop this weekend.
I had a guy with a few 240's and what seemed like good knowledge of Nissans take a look at my car last night. He played with a few of the vacuum lines, looping them into one another and replaces one large hose with a smaller diameter hose. It idles a little better now. Instead of 2200 rpms, its down to about 1500 when warm. The jerkiness isnt as bad in the low rpms as it was, but its definitely still there.
I replaced the plugs yesterday, but failed to get a picture of the old ones. They werent horrible looking, Ive seen worse. The bottom ring down by the tip was the only part that had soot on it.
I also took a look into my stock bov last night. I didnt know I had one to be honest- basically because Ive never heard it. Needless to say, I havent heard it in the least because its full of oil. Im assuming the seals on my turbo are shot, and by the physical appearance of it, I believe my turbo is on its last legs.
Now granted, I am new to this whole Nissan game, so Id definitely need a second, more educated opinion on the topic. But im pretty much ready for worst. Mentally, not financially. Kinda sucks, but oh well. The car has a lot of potential.
Yang- I know a good bit about cars, at least I think I do. lol. I did my engine swap in my Integra with a buddy of mine over a weekend, it being my first time even working on a car. So idk... theres always more to learn and I try to be as big of a sponge as I can.
Oh, and no, my car doesnt shake and the idle isnt rough. its very smooth in fact. And when my friend was messing with my vacuum lines last night, he said the one may have been to a boost controller- which is believable because the car is running 10psi.
I have some tools, but not nearly a considerable amount. Just some sockets and shiz, and other misc. tools.
But i definitely appreciate the help guys. Yang- sent you a PM
05-11-2009, 11:38 AM
#37
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 23
I got the transmission and driveline dropped this weekend. Got the throwout bearing swapped out yesterday, ready to get settled back into that rubber boot. I pulled off the pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel as well yesterday. The oil leak does in fact look as if its coming from the rear main seal. The rear main seal itself and that area of the block should be free from oil, nice and dry and clean, correct? The oil residue seems to start towards the bottom of the rubber doughnut, runs down the back of the block, and runs down the back of the oilpan. When the hobby shop reopens on Wednesday, Ill be replacing the rear main seal, and hoping that my oil pan gasket isnt the culprit. Im pretty positive it isnt though. so yeah, thanks Yang for the 2 links you sent me last night. definitely appreciated!
05-14-2009, 11:33 AM
#40
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 23
replaced the rear main seal last night. there was no gasket behind it. there is now. got the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate bolted back up. putting the tranny back in tonight, then bolting up the driveline. should be driveable tonight as long as all goes well!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Bryan
Private For Sale / Wanted
10
01-24-2006 11:54 AM
communist
S-Chassis Newbie / FAQs Forum
3
09-02-2002 08:46 AM
