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Switching from Honda to Nissan any hints?

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Old 12-13-2002, 08:48 AM
  #16  
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thoraxe....you're my hero....
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Old 12-13-2002, 09:56 AM
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yay i've got a fan!

true, you don't need a full drift suspension to drift... but you're missing my point

To build a car to "drift occasionally" you can do fine with just springs and shocks even.

But to build a car to REALLY FRIGGIN DRIFT you are gonna need all the appropriate bells and whistles.

Like I said, you can have a daily driver that does a lot of things semi OK, or you can build a car to do what you want and sacrifice everything else.

And streetable is a relative term. I know plenty of people who think my car isn't streetable with how stiff/low/loud/annoying it is. But I want to make it stiffer and lower and louder! Well maybe not much lower... I just need bigger wheels and...

THAT'S NOT THE POINT.
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Old 12-13-2002, 10:15 AM
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Thoraxe - first off, I am not dissing the SR swap, but I've never seen it built past or even up to 350 with $6000 including the cost of the clip....sorry. As for the RB being a waste of money....paying less for a RB than a SR clip....really a waste of money huh? Considering the RB starts out with way more hp at the wheels, you would have a greater hp return by using the RB and you could get more parts because you spent less on it than the SR.

Now, tell me about tuning this engine......and why you think that simple adjustments can allow you to flow more boost. Tell me what you find involved in doing this so called "tuning." Fact is, I don't believe it. Stock engines, be it honda, nissan, toyota, anything.....get blown up at 9-10 psi when turbos are added...happens every day. Fact is that the pistons can only handle so much extra pressure over the CR. When this pressure is received at max, there is failure. So you're saying that with simple adjustments such as fuel, spark, etc....you can get rid of this pressure? Explain that to me.

And as far as not thinking....If the RB engine required no thought, than I wouldn't have done it. Back when I did it, no one else had in the US that was posted anywhere online and there was no information on the swap online either. So by thinking that I don't think, you're being ignorant because it takes a lot more thought to put in an engine that there is no documentation of. Think as you may, you wanna spend the money building a SR - go ahead, but I'll get there much faster with my RB for less money....peace.

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Old 12-16-2002, 09:02 PM
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Originally posted by NightXCZ77
Thoraxe - first off, I am not dissing the SR swap, ...but I'll get there much faster with my RB for less money....peace.

Night
man,
1st of all, modding a 6 cylinder will always be more than modding a 4 banger

2nd-
steps to making a 300 hp sr20-
1.)new turbo
done. not difficult.
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Old 12-17-2002, 04:31 AM
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Originally posted by thoraxe
FMAX kit for S14 running 11.3PSI (maybe more now) on Ty Yaps car making something like close to 300RWHP completely stock internals.
thought he was running 1bar already (14.7psi)?? did he go back to 11psi?

As for $6200, you are crazy. You can low buck a turbo kit out of the junkyard for $3000 and be making serious power. You don't need new pistons, rods, OR valves/springs. Why are you making these wacko assumptions? Please don't be so openly ignorant.
lol... for $3000 you could pretty much have a built up kit set up for crazy power or a simple turbo setup with enough money leftover to buy yourself some pistons and rods
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Old 12-17-2002, 06:11 AM
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Thoraxe - first off, I am not dissing the SR swap, but I've never seen it built past or even up to 350 with $6000 including the cost of the clip....sorry. As for the RB being a waste of money....paying less for a RB than a SR clip....really a waste of money huh? Considering the RB starts out with way more hp at the wheels, you would have a greater hp return by using the RB and you could get more parts because you spent less on it than the SR.
1. You've never seen it built past/upto 350 because you're not looking hard enough. How many solid and intelligent SR builds have you seen? How many are there in the US period?
2. RB25 clip for less than $2000? I don't believe it. Show me.
3. RB25 starts out with exactly how much at the wheels? Is it significantly more than 200?
4. Are you building a drag car? because the RB25 in a 240 is really gonna mess up the weight balance somewhat. Not so much in terms of the actual weight (which IS more), but in terms of the weight distribution. It'd be cool to have one, but I'll stick with the SR and usable power. Oh, did I forget to mention that more than 350hp in a street S13 is useless? No, I did.

Now, tell me about tuning this engine......and why you think that simple adjustments can allow you to flow more boost. Tell me what you find involved in doing this so called "tuning." Fact is, I don't believe it. Stock engines, be it honda, nissan, toyota, anything.....get blown up at 9-10 psi when turbos are added...happens every day. Fact is that the pistons can only handle so much extra pressure over the CR. When this pressure is received at max, there is failure. So you're saying that with simple adjustments such as fuel, spark, etc....you can get rid of this pressure? Explain that to me.
I already explained to you that DETONATION KILLS PISTONS NOT BOOST YOU DUMB IGNORANT MORON. I already told you that it's the weak ringlands in cast non-boost intended pistons that go when you get DETONATION. You are *NOT* going to blow up a KA piston *just* by increasing combustion chamber pressure. Man, I bet you could pressurise the KA combustion chamber to 2bar and if you did it slowly enough nothing would break. It's not COMBUSTION CHAMBER PRESSURE that causes failure. The *FACT* is that *DETONATION* kills pistons. DETONATION DETONATION DETONATION. If I say it more and maybe in bold will it sink through your thick skull?

Stock engines get blown up at 9-10 psi because these people are running ****ty fuel managemt (probably an FMU), ****ty timing management (probably a basically stock ecu or maybe something like an ITC), and a bunch of other junk management solutions all gobbled together to make a big pile of ****. How do *YOU* explain to *ME* that TY Yap is now running 1 full bar on a STOCK INTERNALS KA? STOCK PISTONS. STOCK RODS. STOCK RINGS AND RINGLANDS. 14.3PSI. Jesus you are ignorant! *AND* I never said "simple" anything. I said PROPER. With PROPER tuning and management of fuel and ignition so as to AVOID DETONATION (**** there's that D word again, maybe it should be dumbass so you'd understand it) you can run TONS of boost on stock parts before the parts fail. The KA has such a strong bottom end it's not even funny.

And as far as not thinking....If the RB engine required no thought, than I wouldn't have done it. Back when I did it, no one else had in the US that was posted anywhere online and there was no information on the swap online either. So by thinking that I don't think, you're being ignorant because it takes a lot more thought to put in an engine that there is no documentation of. Think as you may, you wanna spend the money building a SR - go ahead, but I'll get there much faster with my RB for less money....peace.
No it doesn't take THOUGHT to do that, it takes RESEARCH. There's a difference. It didn't take any THOUGHT for you to barf out that little bit of misinformation about maximum boost pressure relative to CR and piston strength, did it? It didn't take any THOUGHT for you to become so ignorant, did it?

You'll get there much faster, spend more money when you break it because you're an idiot, have all kinds of fun finding spare parts for it, have a car that runs like crap that no one knows how to tune or how to fix, and look to make more horsepower than you can use anyway for all intents and purposes! Oh, but you'll be oh so "unique" lolol! Go you... moron.

1st of all, modding a 6 cylinder will always be more than modding a 4 banger
Well, that's not necessarily true. The primary reason for this is the fact that there's more exh mani. I think that RB manifolds are probably pretty darn expensive. Also, the big turbo required to make the RB make a ton of power is probably more than the big28 required to make an SR make a ton of power. However if you were building up some smallblock v6, it wouldn't cost you diddly to get your pitiful 300hp. A smallblock v6 in a 240 would be WAY more cost effective... I guess you didn't think very much if you were trying to get cost effective power out of your 240. If you had thought about it, you would've realized that the cheapest and most reliable power is a smallblock. Watch, he's gonna come back at me and say something about domestic engines being unreliable... lol for the amount of money you spent on your whole sh!tting clip you could've probably bought yourself a lo-po Ford Motorsport CRATE engine for god sakes. That thing you'd have a hard time TRYING to blow up hahaha moron

Man I love making fun of him!
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Old 12-17-2002, 09:45 AM
  #22  
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he he he...
=)
what about me!!!!
i wanna get in..
what happens if i happen to say... drop a 13b...
even lighter and lower than a sr
wow! great!
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Old 12-17-2002, 03:19 PM
  #23  
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thoraxe,

first, i like how you owned that dumbass,

but second, how could modding a 6 ever be cheaper than modding a 4. i'm talking overall here, i mean obviously the turbo will be similar, but overall, you're gonna spend more money building up a 6 then a 4.
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Old 12-18-2002, 05:34 AM
  #24  
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Like I said, if you're building a Ford/Chevy V6, it's going to be cheaper. $3000 would get you an insane crate motor that made like 350-400hp and would run all day at 7000-8000rpm.

A 13b in a 240 would be badass. It would move the weight farther back even (50/50) and lower, it would lower the weight overall (aren't they pretty light??)... the only problem is that rotary engines are REALLY hard to tune. On a piston engine you can like listen for detonation.. on a rotary if you've heard detonation you already blew up all your apex seals and need to rebuild the motor haha... rotary engines take REALLY finicky tuning and if I ever had a car with one I'd have to take it to someone that really knew what they were doing.

On the other side, rotaries are insanely easy to rebuild because no pistons/cams/etc and are insanely easy to make insane power with. Simple port job on the rotor housings and exhaust makes like... 200 more HP hahahaha
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Old 01-11-2003, 12:37 PM
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Originally posted by NightSlide Josh
and i resent the mark about the honda thing. Why is there hatred.. i wouldnt mind a honda. Quite frankly they have better reliability than nissan does...
just cuz your car is a pos doesn't mean that nissans reliability sucks. my altima has been abused from day 1 and its still running strong with 143k mi on it. BTW nissan people bash on honda cuz they are played. too many of them are the same crap.
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