Cronux where are you in wisconsin?? Im right by Prescott if your around there!!

 

im in northern wisconsin, south of hayward.

 

The coolant lines i plugged up go directly into the intake plume. Supposibly, it helps the during cold weather, but isn't really need. Ultimately, it just feeds hot air into the engine, but steals horse power. Search coolant bypass, take a look at it.

The resister feeds 12v power to your injectors, and is a must. I purchased a resistor for a fist generation turbo eclipse. But is a must have for your swap.. Search DSM resistor and you'll get your answers.

 

Moving this to "Show and Shine"

 

Man i have searched on both forums i'm on and i can't find anything and i can't get a solid answer is there somewhere you went to figure it out??!!

 

^^^ Mostly I've been figuring this stuff out for myself. I haven't found anything clear on how to do it. ^^^

So here is a video of the swap. I just ordered a manual boost controller, Air/Fuel, and boost gauge. I still have to figure out how to connect the hoses for the the vapor and fuel valves. Plus there's a couple hoses on the plume I need to take care of. When I plug up these hoses, it stalls the engine.

As of now the engine runs rich, and I cannot rev the engine over 3,000rpm's. I'm sure its all related to those hoses. When the boost controller and gauges get here I should be able to eliminate the problem.

Here's the link:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uGrubyMn8vo

 

As Far as wiring that resistor box goes how do you wire it to the injectors? Do you have to splice it into the power wire to the injectors or what?

 

Just cut off the terminal leading to the injectors, and splice each color wire to the injectors to the shown location on that diagram. There's only one wire per injector, and one 12v power wire that needs to be connected. I connected mine to the main ignition power wire.

I purchased a Boost, A/F Gauge and a manual boost controller which I'll be installing this week. I'll post up my progress when I get them installed and working.

Plus, I needed to mod my cold pipe to accommodate some hoses from the intake plume. As of now, I'm not able to rev the engine very high because of it. We'll see how it goes. Catch ya later

 

Sweet man thank you for the info hope it all comes together alright show some pics of the finished project!!! So just cut the one wire from the harness to the injector or just cut and splice the resistor to the one wire??

 

I got the resistor figured out but i was hoping for an update

 

Its been slow going, but I am still working on the swap. Been caught up with school, and work. Currently, I'm modifying my intercooler piping, I had to add a bung for some air lines.

I'll update a little bit later, after I work on it this weekend to get you up to speed on things. I'll catch you later.

 

Not the best video clip, but good enough. I'm Still troubleshooting the MAF / MAF wiring problem or some other problem that chokes the engine out around 2000rpms. I may break down and take it to a local mechanic for a look over, cause I'm getting frustrated with not being able to complete the swap myself. I may also just purchase a new 1989 KA24E MAF from Autozone just to be sure its not the MAF itself... either way, I'll keep posting the progress!



Speedo, Tach, and Water Temp still not connected. Boost gauge reads 15 vacuum under idle and will reach zero before the engine chokes out. A/F Gauge displays a stoic mixture.

 

Today I got some hours in with the car, as I am still trying to get the car to rev over 2000rpms, and came across something interesting.

Today I decided to take a closer look at the coil packs and spark plugs. So I removed all coil packs first and then went to work on the spark plugs. To my surprise, the first plug I removed from cylinder #4 still looked as clean as the day I bought it! I continued on the rest, and as expected they all showed signs of firing. So I replaced all plugs in the same location as they were removed, and swapped coil pack over cylinder #4 and #3 reinstalled everything and ran the car for another five minutes or so to see if I could show signs of firing on cylinder #4. Unfortunately after removing the coil and plug it still showed now signs. Finally, I swapped the plug that looked new over to #3 cylinder and started up the car again for another five minutes, and as expected this time the plug showed signs of firing.

Now knowing that all my coil packs are working, it was time to look at the injectors or the resistor for the injectors.

With the engine running I tested all connection to the resistor and got a read out well over 12v for each injector, so that is functioning correctly.

Now I'm looking at the injectors. With the car running again, I tried moving the injector around a bit while at the same time I gave it some gas from the throttle body. Amazing, holding the injector at an angle the engine would rev well over 2000rpms. So, I'm taking this as a good sign that the injector needs to be cleaned or just replaced all together.

So from here, I'm researching how to remove and clean the injectors. I read that injectors from a 1991 turbo eclipse are a compatible replacement. If anyone knows of any write-ups that would help me, please send them over!

Thanks for reading!

 

Hey all, I know I haven't posted any of my progress in awhile and have a lot of information to share.

Been driving my car for about a week now with the engine swap running near perfectly - its a great feeling! I'll share the details later about how it is currently setup.