I got a filter in last week.

Tools needed:
Phillipshead screwdriver
10mm wrench


Apexi Power Intake

Place your gasket on the filter...

and use a screwdriver to mount this thing on.

You will need a wrench for one or two bolts because you can't get a screwdriver on the bolt head.

Next, take your MAF.

Bolt it up.

Take your Intake pipe.

I'm not using the stock recirc valve/BOV so I need to plug up this port. You can use a 2liter bottle cap.

I got the HKS hotpipe and it came with plugs for the stock sidemount...

so I used one of them instead.

Put the intake pipe on, screw it together and you're finished. I can't wait to put this on tomorrow!

 

Still trying to finish up this swap. I put my driveshaft in a couple of nights ago at like 3 in the morning with a flood light, I was bored...that was fun! Today it was pleasant out so I put my clutch master to slave line in and pulled out the kinked up line, put my starter on and tried to put my radiator in.

I ran into a problem with fitment, I had to shave some off the sides in order to get past the battery tray and the ledge of the engine compartment on the other side. I also found out that I'm missing some rubber bushings that go on the bottom of the rad where the posts sit in the holes on the frame, I'm gonna have to get to a junkyard or order a new set because it throws off the rubber bushings on the top...it leaves some uneeded slack between the rad brackets and the top of the rad definitely not cool. I put my lower engine harness in and connected the various grounds in the engine bay. I also connected the fuel lines and radiator hoses. It started to get dark on me but I managed to get my engine harness layed out, connected and ran through the firewall. I also put the ECU in place. I mounted the sidemount intercooler last week before we put the engine in and found that the intercooler ducting sticks out of the hole in the bumper. The only reason I can think of to explain this is that I have the non-turbo bumper so I'm gonna have to take my dremel and shave maybe an inch off that duct to keep it from sticking through the bumper. Also, can anyone tell me how to get those nuts off the throttle cable so I can run it through the SR throttle cable bracket. The SR bracket is not like the KA bracket which allows you to just slide off the cable. The SR has a circular bushing of some type that looks like you have to run the cable through it....?????

 

My downpipe came in.


I had a downpipe that I wrapped in exhaust wrap and sprayed with silicon but I sold it in favor of one with the flex section in it.

Flex joint.

I also put a new shifter bushing on my shifter which apparently didn't have one on it to begin with. I hadn't noticed that when I removed it months ago.

OEM shifter bushing part#: 32861-H7301 Place it on the end and one good pop with a hammer and it's on snug.

 

Does anyone know if the little metal clip that holds the MAF plug onto the MAF sensor is the same on the SR as the KA because I'm missing one and went to the junkyard today and there weren't any. I snagged one off a Stanza but it's too small. I've got it on the MAF but it does not fit well.

 

i think only the SOHC ka not the DOHC ka

 

Over the last couple of days I installed the driveshaft, downpipe, P/S stuff, ran the vac/fuel lines, intercooler piping, shifter and the radiator. Yesterday I installed the gauge bezel and boost controller but did not connect the wires for power.

This morning I filled the fluids and got a new battery. I had a friend who is a guru at engine swaps come down from Tuscaloosa and look over things. He adjusted the intercooler piping and I had the ground wire for my starter on the block, don't do this or it will eat your battery terminals up. After he checked some other things we connected the battery and turned the key and nothing happened...there wasn't a click for the starter or anything. Turns out that there was a wire running along the back of the firewall that the previous owner who did a auto to manual swap ran from the ignition to the starter, basically a starter wire. He ran this wire to the fuse block and connected it to one of the big plugs and...

SHE CRANKED UP AND STARTED ON THE FIRST TRY!!!! He connected power to my guages and we got the oil pressure up to 50 PSI, I have to look up the oil pressure numbers on this engine and see where I'm at as I'm not sure about them at the moment.

There are still some bugs that I have to fix like the throttle cable seems to be to short, when connected to the throttle pulley it won't go full rotation so it would rev up if it was connected. I have to adjust my alternator and P/S belts...one of them is squeaking and you can see them wobble because they are not tight!
THANKS TO EVERYONE THAT READ THIS THREAD AND THANKS TO EVERYONE THAT HELPED OUT WITH INFORMATION, TIPS AND COMMENTS!


S-CHASSIS RULES!

 

That thing looks gorgeous in there. Congrats bro!

 

After confirming that the fan works, fixing the throttle cable problem and bleeding the radiator, how long should I let the engine run at idle before I actually get in and start driving it around? Also, to anyone with a DIF fan controller, the instructions are very vague about programming, so how did you program yours?

 

You shouldn't have to wait long, I wouldn't think. Also depending on temperature, I would say 5 minutes?

 

That motor looks beautiful. Wish mine looked that good.

 

Looks awesome man, once you get all the bugs worked out you should post a video so we can see and hear her purr. YEAH!!!!

 

Thanks everyone!

 

I am actually sad/happy it was like reading a book of a engines life growing up... haha good stuff man that SR looks sweet

 

I had a coolant leak from the rear and it turns out that the small braided coolant line behind the block was loose so I was able to get back there with a 7mm wrench and tighten it but now I have another coolant leak where the S shaped heater hose connects to the firewall.

The clamp is not loose so what's the deal? Also, I set my DIF fan controller to O on both fans and let the engine idle until the temp gauge got up to 150 degrees but the fans never came on so I shut it off...anyone?

 

I forgot to mention that the S shaped hose wasn't leaking at all until I added more coolant and water to the radiator to fill it up. Could it be that I added too much coolant? There seems to be a bulge where the S shaped hose connects to the firewall.