Okay so this fan controller has had me stumped but I finally figured out the problem tonight. I went over my wiring time and time again and found it to be intact. I went to AutoZone and got a $4 on/off toggle switch with the two black wires attached. I went outside, removed the negative battery cable, stripped some wire off the two black manual switch wires on the fan controller switch sensor and tied them to the toggle switch. I followed the instructions by setting the switch to "4" for Nissan and touched the fan controllers ground wire to the negative battery terminal and turned on the toggle switch, the fans did not come on but I could hear the fan controller click on four times, stop and click on four times again. I was stumped because it was obvious that the fan controller works and was in programming mode. I went inside and looked over the instructions and it hit me that while I had the fan controller's ground wire at the battery, I had the two fans ground wires on the chassis where the ground for the headlights are. So I removed the fans ground wires and placed all three grounds ring terminals on a screwdriver and touched the screwdriver to the negative battery terminal and voila...THE DRIVERS SIDE FAN BEGAN TO PULSE FOUR TIMES JUST AS THE INSTRUCTIONS SAID. THE FAN PULSES FOUR TIMES, STOPS AND PULSES FOUR MORE TIMES AND THIS CYCLE CONTINUES TO LET YOU KNOW THAT THE FAN CONTROLLER HAS BEEN PROGRAMMED! So once again...success and thanks for the help! It's dark, cold, late and my hands feel like two blocks of ice so I'm done for the night. I'll get out there tomorrow and adjust the temp switches and see if the fans come on while idling the engine. Little tip...place all three grounds, the DiF fan controller and the two fan grounds at the battery if possible to complete the connection.

 

I'm going to apply power to the boost controller tomorrow and was thinking that since the $40-$50 gauges needed a inline fuse...why not use a inline fuse for a $300 boost controller? The instructions don't say to use a inline fuse but if I choose to what size fuse should I go with?

 

Thanks alot man. Your thread is very thorough. Good thread.

 

I got out there today, reconnected the battery cable with ALL the fan controller/fan grounds at the battery, programmed the fan controller and set it to "0". I let the car idle for a while and both fans came on at 150 degrees as stated so now that problem has been solved.

 

Alright, now that the fans are operating I let the car sit and idle for a while. The idle started out at around 1800 but eventually dropped to 1000. My fuel pressure was around 39 to 40 PSI I just glanced at that gauge. I have a drip of coolant coming from the AN adapter that the water temp sensor is plugged into at the water neck, apparently I didn't put any teflon tape on it so I have to fix that.
Question, I have two nozzles on the rubber intake piece that need to be blocked off. A really small one and the larger one with the hose that, on a stock setup is connected to the T-fitting on the valvecover. Currently, I just took the nipple that was on the OEM coldpipe off and put it on the end of the smaller hose but the larger port I just have electrical tape covering it up. Anyone have any suggestions on what I can use to block these off with?

 

I need to find a spot to get power to the boost controller...any suggestions. I should mention that the wiring in my car looks like a bowl of spaghetti...it's a mess. I'm using the cigarette lighter for the gauge bezel. I was going to go with the illumination switch but wouldn't that mean that my boost controller wouldn't come on until I switched on my lights? I also tracked down that coolant leak that I thought was coming from the bung in the water neck...it's coming from the water neck itself. Apparently the gasket that I put around it isn't holding well enough so tomorrow I'm going to redo that. My question is what type of gasket maker should I use because I used the orange RTV the first time, it could be that I just didn't put a good enough bead of gasket around the neck though.

 

Your wiring harness that goes to your cd player has illumination wires.... Thats where I tied in my gauges. This way they come on when you put your driving lights or your headlights on and are off when you have lights off. If you need colors, I could check for you. If you have an aftermarket cd player, they are prob orange.

 

I don't have a CD player. Alright, I ran a wire straight to the battery and got power to the boost controller but I ran into a problem. The controllers led blue screen stays on all the time, when I hold the button to turn it off and when I shut the car off the blue screen reading "000" is on all the time so I removed the power switch and decided to go into the ignition switch. Luckily when I looked at the ignition switch, the previous owner already had a female tap on the ignition switch already so I put a male connector on the boost controller power wire and plugged it in and I got power...but the controller still stays on the blue screen all the time. Can anyone with a Greddy Profec tell me if it's supposed to do that?

 

shouldnt the timer run off the ignition power? thats just me though. should just have a ground an ebrake cable and ignition harness splice. =)

 

Alright, I tapped into the big black and red wire on the ignition switch and inserted a male connector into the tap and the boost controller is fully functional. It comes on when the key is turned and turns off when the ignition is shut off.

 

Can anyone tell me what they used to get the snap rings back on their shifter? I know I can use some needle nose pliers for the snap ring with the holes in it that goes on top but for the other ring without the holes what can I use or get for it? I went to the parts store and the snap ring pliers that they had are only good for the rings with the holes in them.

 

[QUOTE=positron;377017]Can anyone tell me what they used to get the snap rings back on their shifter? I know I can use some needle nose pliers for the snap ring with the holes in it that goes on top but for the other ring without the holes what can I use or get for it? I went to the parts store and the snap ring pliers that they had are only good for the rings with the holes in them.[/QUOTE

Are you talking about the two rings around the shifter to take it out? snap ring is first then the 1 under is a solid ring? If you are what I did to take the bottom one of it a flathead screw driver...I pushed it up to the edge of the inside of the shifter and got needle nose plyers and spin the ring around...same way trying to put it in...if this is what your talking about

 

Umm... back to the illumination lights, it doesnt matter if you have a CD player or just stock tape deck. There are still 2 wires that go to the tape deck that if you tap into them, your gauges will turn on when you turn your lights on. I just think its a little cooler to have your lights in your gauges turn on when you turn your headlights on.

 

i jus spent like 2 hours reading this thread, and im not even considering going sr20 lol but i still enjoyed it, an holy hell i must say i havnt seen neone pay as much attention to detail as u, but as ppl have said before, i would have gone in an checked out the internals, bearing cleances ect.. its actually pretty simple as long as u prelube everything before u put it back together an torque EVERYTHING to spec, that and get some new gloves haha

p.s. u have a sweet microwave

 

My timer is missing the main power harness.

Yeah those two. I'm gonna have to manhandle it looks like!

I don't have a tape deck either but I am going to try what you suggested when I get that turbo timer and then I'll do the controller the same way if I can get it to work.

Yeah, I chickened out on doing that stuff but I am going to have it done.