If you need the wire colors, just let me know. I tapped into the main harness when I wired the lights to my gauges.

 

Yeah, what are the colors?

 

have u been running the car for a while now?
if u have been an its been running smooth an all (no noises that make u go, ummmmmm, then turn the radio up)
then u could prolly get away with not taking apart the internals for now, especially if its a low mileage engine, but with how much work uv done id hate to see sumthin bad happen to it

jus throwin in my 3 cents

p.s. ill be the first to admit that im giutly of the ole radio volume fix haha

 

Alright, I finally managed to fanagle both those shifter rings into place. After that I put my console and glovebox back in so my interior is back to norm...just needs a good cleaning, cobwebs and dust. I had my ECU on upside down so I had to fix that. I also broke out the zipties and cleaned up the loose wires in the bay. I ziptied them together and hid as many as I could. I still need some of that covering for the fan wiring. I ran the engine and tested the new gasket on the water neck and it's fine...no leaks but there was a leak on the bung in the S14 water neck so I pulled it out and teflon taped it, threaded it back in and it's no longer leaking. I think I am finally leakless...yes!!! I started the engine again and revved it slightly and heard my bov for the first time...friggin' sweet! Tomorrow I have to put that extra exhaust gasket on to close up the leak where the downpipe meets the cat and fix the bolt situation on the driveshaft carrier bearing. I thought that the bolts for the center bearing and the transmission cross member were the same but apparently they weren't and we got them mixed up so now I have to figure out which bolt in the tranny crossmember is the one for the center bearing, pull it out and put the loose bolt that I have in. Test drive tomorrow!!!

 

I got a set of radiator feet in.

Part#: 21508-10V00
It's raining out so I have to wait on the exhaust gaskets and carrier bearing bolts.

 

It's 1 in the morning and I put my car up on jackstands and go ahead and put the extra exhaust gaskets on to seal up the gap between the downpipe and the cat. I also put the missing bolt in the driveshaft center bearing so now I guess I'm ready for the test drive tomorrow.

 

Good luck man. Ive been watching this closely in prep for my swap this spring. BTW thanks for the KA24 pull thread, really helped alot!

 

 

I went out there tonight and put those radiator feet on the hard way...with the hoses intact and fluid in the rad...and by myself to boot. Let me start off first by saying to anyone who plans to do the swap, make absolutely sure that you have the feet on the rad before you put it in because it is an absolute PITA to put them on a completely setup rad by yourself. This would have been much easier in the daytime and with a friend to help but I'm always the only one around when I do this crap! By taking the battery out and removing the radiator brackets, I was able to shimy the rad up maybe an inch which allowed me to slide the feet on. THIS IS NOT EASY TO DO BY YOURSELF!!! After that I topped off my rad and let the car run for awhile with the cap off to bleed it. I then took a short spin around the apartment complex. I then came to a big conclusion, either I'm out of practice driving a manual or that stage 2 clutch is way to stiff for me. Either way I'm happy because I got to drive my 240 for the first time in some time. I need to get my stickers and then I'll get on a dead road somewhere and get some boost for the first time.

 

ilu.

Take it to a track nub.
Are you planning on dori? Is this primarily a street car?

 

well different companies have different ratings for stages like my Spec stage 2 holds up to 380 torque but it feels just a little more grippy then a stock clutch but drives real nice

 

nice dude! and congrats!

 

It's just a street car. There's an industrial road near here that is completely dead at night so I'm just gonna drive it back and forth to adjust myself to that friggin' clutch.


Also, yet another leak I might add. This time it's oil coming from the turbo line banjo bolt. I'll have to get out the wrench and tighten that. It seems that all my leaks appear to be from stuff not being tightened enough. I'm going to have to be extra vigilant from now on when it comes to stuff that I don't tighten with a torque wrench. I also think I need to tighten the banjo and bolt on the P/S pump. The coolant leaks on the temp sensor bung and firewall fixed, the gas coming from the fuel gauge fixed(if you get one of these, make sure you take it apart, put teflon tape on the threads and tighten back). I guess it could be worse because aside from these minor leaks, everything appears to be fine. I will be doing a leakdown/compression test ASAP to see if my numbers match JSA's. Also, the idle started off at almost 2000 but after the car ran for awhile it dropped and leveled off at 1000. I'm gonna look more into this but if anyone has any info on that it would be greatly appreciated.

 

alot of cars will ilde high when they are cold, i dont no how high an sr20 idles all engines are different
just a guess
ne other symptoms and conditions at the time of the high idle? had it done that before or since then?

 

I tightened some couplings and hoses and now it seems to idle at 1000 whenever I start it up so I'm not sure what that was about. Still idles a little high when it's really cold out like you said though.