Full exhaust, how much HP?
07-17-2005, 05:43 PM
#61
Contributing Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Paterson, NJ
Posts: 1,415
i didnt say anything about Vinnie being my role model, the guy knows about what hes talking about tho. He's probably done more work with 240sx then most of us here.
and like i sed b4, im also going with the 3" piping. I kno Turbo is coming soon so thats why im getting it.
What im tryin 2 tell you guys is that your not getting "14hp" out of a cat-back, Thats all....
and like i sed b4, im also going with the 3" piping. I kno Turbo is coming soon so thats why im getting it.
What im tryin 2 tell you guys is that your not getting "14hp" out of a cat-back, Thats all....
07-17-2005, 06:13 PM
#62
Contributing Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 680
Originally posted by Slidin240
i didnt say anything about Vinnie being my role model, the guy knows about what hes talking about tho. He's probably done more work with 240sx then most of us here.
and like i sed b4, im also going with the 3" piping. I kno Turbo is coming soon so thats why im getting it.
What im tryin 2 tell you guys is that your not getting "14hp" out of a cat-back, Thats all....
i didnt say anything about Vinnie being my role model, the guy knows about what hes talking about tho. He's probably done more work with 240sx then most of us here.
and like i sed b4, im also going with the 3" piping. I kno Turbo is coming soon so thats why im getting it.
What im tryin 2 tell you guys is that your not getting "14hp" out of a cat-back, Thats all....
He gets half a piece of real information and then gets it confused when he tries to regurgitate it on the forum. He tuned an AFC without any dyno or even a/f testing.
He also thinks adding fuel to a 240 will add power, meaning he does not even undertsand the basics.
-Justin
07-17-2005, 08:49 PM
#64
Originally posted by Justin.b
The point I'm trying to make to you is that he just straight up does not know what he's talking about.
He gets half a piece of real information and then gets it confused when he tries to regurgitate it on the forum. He tuned an AFC without any dyno or even a/f testing.
He also thinks adding fuel to a 240 will add power, meaning he does not even undertsand the basics.
-Justin
The point I'm trying to make to you is that he just straight up does not know what he's talking about.
He gets half a piece of real information and then gets it confused when he tries to regurgitate it on the forum. He tuned an AFC without any dyno or even a/f testing.
He also thinks adding fuel to a 240 will add power, meaning he does not even undertsand the basics.
-Justin
You also talk about runnin rich, what the hell, the minute I see thick NOX comin out of the muffler I de tune, no need for a dyno, well yeah if your F/I I guess so spilner.
Really your one to talk you got rid of your KA for an SR.
You defenitely need some lessons in tuning especially if your using an illegal JDM ""hopeless", and out sourcing parts for an SR are a ***** and over rated".
You said $100 I could get a dyno tune?
Your smokin crack man, $220 is the average cost of a DYNO tune. Oh but I guess the shop you went to for your SR swap did it for $100 eeh.
07-17-2005, 08:53 PM
#65
Really whats your beef? You have a stick up your ***, your just a punk with no proof, plain and simple.
What you made because I called your sticky on exhaust CRAP, get over yourself or get whooridden by the whole forum, you little smart ***.
What you made because I called your sticky on exhaust CRAP, get over yourself or get whooridden by the whole forum, you little smart ***.
07-17-2005, 08:55 PM
#66
Contributing Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 680
If you're paying them to tune, then your price is probably right. If you're just paying for the time and doing a quick tune yourself, $100 will get you on the rollers - less if you go on an organized dyno day.
The only shops I have ever paid to do any work on any of my cars are tire shops to mount and balance the tires on the rims and alignment shops. I admittedly do not have the space or money for a rack or tire mounting equipment.
You are running rich because the factory program is rich and you added more fuel on top of it with the AFC. No wonder your cat needs to be replaced - that's probably where half of your fuel is processed.
-Justin
The only shops I have ever paid to do any work on any of my cars are tire shops to mount and balance the tires on the rims and alignment shops. I admittedly do not have the space or money for a rack or tire mounting equipment.
You are running rich because the factory program is rich and you added more fuel on top of it with the AFC. No wonder your cat needs to be replaced - that's probably where half of your fuel is processed.
-Justin
07-17-2005, 09:06 PM
#67
Originally posted by Justin.b
You are running rich because the factory program is rich and you added more fuel on top of it with the AFC. No wonder your cat needs to be replaced - that's probably where half of your fuel is processed.
-Justin
You are running rich because the factory program is rich and you added more fuel on top of it with the AFC. No wonder your cat needs to be replaced - that's probably where half of your fuel is processed.
-Justin
You don't need a data logger, or a dyno, I simply P.M people if I'm not shure about a setting. There are other people with KA's that use an SAFC, I'm not the only one you know.
Last quote I got for a dyno tune was $220 thats almost the cost of my SAFC.
Why would I also want to dyno if I am getting internal work done, it just doesn't make sence.
07-17-2005, 09:15 PM
#68
Contributing Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 680
You go to the dyno because that is how you get the benefit of the electronics.
The benefit of something like an AFC or emanage is that it is tune to your specific car, which is where you get the big gains.
The car makes most power right on the verge of detonating. Stock electronics are too conservatively programmed to let the motor get there... so you plug in something like the AFC and dial out a little fuel to lean the mixture.... the only way to know exactly how much to dial it back on your engine is to monitor the a/f ratios either on the dyno or on the street with something like an LM1.
There's always the one next thing you want to do before you bring it to the dyno... I know. Dyno money could be spent on parts. But especially where you have the AFC, you would really see some benefits from putting it on the rollers for an hour or so.
-Justin
The benefit of something like an AFC or emanage is that it is tune to your specific car, which is where you get the big gains.
The car makes most power right on the verge of detonating. Stock electronics are too conservatively programmed to let the motor get there... so you plug in something like the AFC and dial out a little fuel to lean the mixture.... the only way to know exactly how much to dial it back on your engine is to monitor the a/f ratios either on the dyno or on the street with something like an LM1.
There's always the one next thing you want to do before you bring it to the dyno... I know. Dyno money could be spent on parts. But especially where you have the AFC, you would really see some benefits from putting it on the rollers for an hour or so.
-Justin
07-17-2005, 09:56 PM
#69
Contributing Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Woodbridge
Posts: 886
Wow, this thread has gotten pretty out of control. Let me try to clear a few things up that I may have said. I think some of you are taking it, and going another way with it.
To start off, the original poster has a 3" Apex'i N1 Exhaust. He was asking how much horse power this exhaust was adding. The problem here is gasses exiting the combustion chamber of an N/A car are already under very high pressure, which is what creates the exhaust pulse in the first place. Turbos and Superchargers can raise that pressure dramatically, causing much bigger pulses. Because of the larger pulse sizes, you can see that having larger exhaust pipe sizes are okay, whereas in an almost STOCK N/A car, like the original poster has--this is probably causing him to lose horse power, considering the exhaust gasses aren't exiting the piping very effectively, as the exhaust pulses are scattered, disorganized, and maybe even getting sucked back in during the intake stroke (think: burnt gas won't re-ignite), so you're diluting the fresh air/fuel mixture.
In response to the original question, power is determined by how much air flow you get and the resultant cylinder pressure generated to turn the crank... plain and simple.
Peak horsepower depends on how much air flow volume (also called "flow capacity") goes into the engine and how much burnt air:fuel mixture is removed from the engine.
If you increase this volume, you must also increase the velocity at which the spent resources exit your system.
Please do NOT think that the only reason you would need 3" or above piping is because you have turbo. I've seen a lot of aggressive N/A setups that utilize larger exhaust piping because of how much power they put down.
Last, I heavily favor PROPER tuning. You may have a turbo, you may have i/h/e/c, whatever you have, PLEASE go to a dyno and either tune it yourself, or have someone who KNOWS how to tune do it for you. Tuning is the most ESSENTIAL part to keeping a car running reliably. It is probably a good 70% of what keeps a modified car from detonation, ESPECIALLY with forced induction. So PLEASE, get yourself some tuning. It's not going to be cheap, but it'll save you money from replacing your blown engine down the road.
Like someone told me before:
Fast and Cheap is not Reliable
Cheap and Reliable is not Fast
Fast and Reliable is not Cheap
Well, hope that helps somewhat...
You all need to stop fighting.
Toodles.
To start off, the original poster has a 3" Apex'i N1 Exhaust. He was asking how much horse power this exhaust was adding. The problem here is gasses exiting the combustion chamber of an N/A car are already under very high pressure, which is what creates the exhaust pulse in the first place. Turbos and Superchargers can raise that pressure dramatically, causing much bigger pulses. Because of the larger pulse sizes, you can see that having larger exhaust pipe sizes are okay, whereas in an almost STOCK N/A car, like the original poster has--this is probably causing him to lose horse power, considering the exhaust gasses aren't exiting the piping very effectively, as the exhaust pulses are scattered, disorganized, and maybe even getting sucked back in during the intake stroke (think: burnt gas won't re-ignite), so you're diluting the fresh air/fuel mixture.
In response to the original question, power is determined by how much air flow you get and the resultant cylinder pressure generated to turn the crank... plain and simple.
Peak horsepower depends on how much air flow volume (also called "flow capacity") goes into the engine and how much burnt air:fuel mixture is removed from the engine.
If you increase this volume, you must also increase the velocity at which the spent resources exit your system.
Please do NOT think that the only reason you would need 3" or above piping is because you have turbo. I've seen a lot of aggressive N/A setups that utilize larger exhaust piping because of how much power they put down.
Last, I heavily favor PROPER tuning. You may have a turbo, you may have i/h/e/c, whatever you have, PLEASE go to a dyno and either tune it yourself, or have someone who KNOWS how to tune do it for you. Tuning is the most ESSENTIAL part to keeping a car running reliably. It is probably a good 70% of what keeps a modified car from detonation, ESPECIALLY with forced induction. So PLEASE, get yourself some tuning. It's not going to be cheap, but it'll save you money from replacing your blown engine down the road.
Like someone told me before:
Fast and Cheap is not Reliable
Cheap and Reliable is not Fast
Fast and Reliable is not Cheap
Well, hope that helps somewhat...
You all need to stop fighting.
Toodles.
07-18-2005, 01:29 PM
#71
Originally posted by Slidin240
just to clear it up i wasnt "fighting", i was just stating what i know...
just to clear it up i wasnt "fighting", i was just stating what i know...
In no way does it help the learning process it just retards it.
I'll keep you guys posted on the install of my DC sport header, and 2.5 CAT.
I'll try to present a dyno as soon as possible just to show the gains with the mods I have before I upgrade my internals, fuel management, and EMS.
Rebello Racing has a waiting list for there dyno tuning so I will see whats crackin.
Justin is right I should "fine" tune the SAFC. Well atleast till my .020 bore/KAde block comes in.
Anybody know where I can just get a BLOCK for cheap?
07-18-2005, 02:45 PM
#73
Originally posted by miked808
I got one I'll give it to you if you come and get it.
I got one I'll give it to you if you come and get it.
dam thats funny, if that would of happend to me i wouldnt have bought it either...
