hot cam swap is awesome!
i've got a 97 de waiting to get installed and i have two 91 cams. should i take the exhaust and intake cams off the 97 and put both the 91s in? or just install the 91 cam onto the intake side of the 97?
Originally posted by gunline_boss
what do u have done
what do u have done
So far I have the dual exhuast cam set up, drop in K&N filter, DC Sports header, gutted cat, RSR Exmag, Fidanza Lightwight Flywheel. I have some ITBs in the works ;D
Originally posted by miked808
I've been going back and forth with the 4 and 3 Tooth combo over the past couple of weeks and I'm certain the 3 Tooth is gonna be better on the 1/4 so on the 25th of this Month I'll finally make it to Maryland International Raceway to get the Timeslips.
I've been going back and forth with the 4 and 3 Tooth combo over the past couple of weeks and I'm certain the 3 Tooth is gonna be better on the 1/4 so on the 25th of this Month I'll finally make it to Maryland International Raceway to get the Timeslips.
I cannot get the 3 tooth method to run on my car at all. It WILL NOT start at all. It runs fine with the 4 tooth. I sat down and did the cam math and if you do the 3 tooth method there is a hell of alot of overlap cause it opens too soon and the valve closes too soon. I can understand going 4 teeth and getting an ajustable gear, but it sounds crazy. And so far I still haven't seen any dyno sheets, does anybody have one? back to back?
Originally posted by miked808
I've been going back and forth with the 4 and 3 Tooth combo over the past couple of weeks and I'm certain the 3 Tooth is gonna be better on the 1/4 so on the 25th of this Month I'll finally make it to Maryland International Raceway to get the Timeslips.
I've been going back and forth with the 4 and 3 Tooth combo over the past couple of weeks and I'm certain the 3 Tooth is gonna be better on the 1/4 so on the 25th of this Month I'll finally make it to Maryland International Raceway to get the Timeslips.
Originally posted by turbodaytona
I cannot get the 3 tooth method to run on my car at all. It WILL NOT start at all. It runs fine with the 4 tooth. I sat down and did the cam math and if you do the 3 tooth method there is a hell of alot of overlap cause it opens too soon and the valve closes too soon.
I cannot get the 3 tooth method to run on my car at all. It WILL NOT start at all. It runs fine with the 4 tooth. I sat down and did the cam math and if you do the 3 tooth method there is a hell of alot of overlap cause it opens too soon and the valve closes too soon.
I've been saying the same thing Turbo Daytona.......
Infact if you do the math correctly the intake valve begins to open at the end of stroke 1 and into stroke 2 (Compression stroke). This means that it isn't possible for the engine to run at all since the engine loses VE and compression from valve opening into stroke 2. Now I can't quite remember off the top of my head, but I believe there are 19 teeth on a KA cam sprocket. 360 / 19 = 18.96 degress. Maximum amount of degress that a cam can be shifted (advance/retarded) from stock position is about +/-12 degress from what Nissan points out from position of the crankshaft.
Retarding the cam only further takes away from streetable idle, and decreases gas mileage (just like honda engines that use VTECH controller settings below 3000RPM). Advancing the cam will add to low end torque, but drop peak HP. IMO I don't see a problem retarding the cam no more than 7 degress from factory settings but I defenitely wouldn't retard it any further. People claim the KA to be a non interference engine, but with my experience dealing with these engines I highly doubt that's factual.
Last edited by BigVinnie; Oct 9, 2006 at 05:59 PM.
Hey BIGVINNIE, do you think it is possible to use a standard cam degree wheel to check some of this out. I saw a post on another forum on how to make your own JWT adjustable cam sprockets and I want to use a cam wheel to get everything right. I also really want to see when the valve starts open in relation to crankshaft position.
Originally posted by sularus65
Hey BIGVINNIE, do you think it is possible to use a standard cam degree wheel to check some of this out. I saw a post on another forum on how to make your own JWT adjustable cam sprockets and I want to use a cam wheel to get everything right. I also really want to see when the valve starts open in relation to crankshaft position.
Hey BIGVINNIE, do you think it is possible to use a standard cam degree wheel to check some of this out. I saw a post on another forum on how to make your own JWT adjustable cam sprockets and I want to use a cam wheel to get everything right. I also really want to see when the valve starts open in relation to crankshaft position.
Im doing something like the hotcam swap myself. I havent been on here in a while but an update on my 240. Shes now a 91 with the heart of a 95. But i didnt waste my time and money gong stock -> stock... for starters i put my intake cam from my s13 motor onto the itnake side of the s14 and left the exhaust cams alone. The guy who is helping me with the swap, charles, knows about just about all the different combos of stock KA cams from altimas, 240s and what not. Currently hes running 2 altima exhaust cams. It idles lopey as hell, but that thing is hella fast. Anyways, 248/248 isnt the best for eeryone i whould say... find what will overlap best for you and have the right lift and duration.
Tomorrow we get to hear her run for the first time. DC header, no more emissions BS, new gaskets on my exhaust (yay no more nasty sounding leaks!), and a whole slew of new parts. This should be one hell of a day.
Tomorrow we get to hear her run for the first time. DC header, no more emissions BS, new gaskets on my exhaust (yay no more nasty sounding leaks!), and a whole slew of new parts. This should be one hell of a day.
does the car sound different after the swap? i just did mine this weekend and it sounds like a v8 at idle, lol. its probably off a tooth or 2 but how does it sound, oh yea, when i did it i noticed more torque, not top end.


