someone do me a favor. i'm use to driving a stick and don't feel like using google.

explain to me:

stage 2 clutch and difference from oem
stage 3 clutch and difference from oem
stage 4 which i'll never probably use and difference from oem

4 puck, 6 puck, 8 puck.

fill me in please.

 

Usually it's because of an unsteady foot on the throttle.

You accelerate, the force of the movement pushes you back in your seat just enough to cause you to let off the throttle. The resulting deceleration causes you to push the throttle a little. Then it happens all over again until you gain control or let off the throttle.

It only takes a little movement to do it. You don't notice it because your head is getting whipped back and forth.

 

My tips:

Don't rest your foot on the clutch pedal while driving. It only takes a little bit of movement in the pedal to cause the throwout bearing to disengage, which leads to premature wear on the bearing. Instead rest your foot on the dead pedal or the floor. The dead pedal is to the left of the clutch pedal, and it has a rubber pad on it.

When coming to a stop, you can usually just push the shifter into neutral without pushing the clutch in. At about 1,000 rpms, gently push the shifter toward neutral. Don't force it. If it doesn't go into neutral before the engine hits 500 rpm, push the clutch in. Doing this saves wear on the clutch and bearings. A friend of mine went 200,000 miles on one clutch in his toyota using this technique as well as good rev-matching.

 

mmm, how exactly does rev matching work? I've heard about it before but always been scared to try it...

 

When you rev-match, you blip the throttle during a downshift to get the RPMs near where they should be for the lower gear.

Of course the way to do this that prevents wear on the transmission is called double-clutching. In double-clutching, you push the clutch in, put it in neutral, let the clutch out and bring the revs to where they need to be, push the clutch in again, and put the shifter into the gear and let the clutch out.

 

double clutching was something that had to be done before there were syncros in trannies. I guess I can see how it could prevent wear on the clutch.... ::shrug::

 

Rev-matching prevents wear on the clutch. Double-clutching prevents wear on the gear synchros.

 

I learned to drive a stick on a 350z, it sucked, i got hella pissed at my dad and what not. I would gun it and pop the clutch just to get going then shifting is easy once your moving.

The 350z had a clutch that was harder to hold down and poped up real fast, i would suggest trying to find a old truck and learn on that, it just slides into gear. There is a point in the clutch when you bring it up you can tell when it "enguages" and the car will start moving. Hell if you just want to get out of first, rev it to about 2500-3k rpms and pop the clutch out, not necessarily what you will always do, but will help you learn how to push the clutch in and shift then down****, learn to shift before downshifting, but downshifting will help with less braking.

I also suggest teaching yourself, i learned the basics when i bought my 240 then figured it all out, blah blah you'll get it, just down get frustrated, if you get pissed, stop, smoke a cigarette or something then try again, once you learn it'll rejuvinate the early love of driving, i know it sure as hell did for me! with a standard you have just so much more control over the car, i get into the zen of driving, good times!

 

yea learning on a sports car is not the best idea.

 

I'm alot better with stick now, and when I'm slowing down to lights, I just kinda pop it outta gear w/o the clutch and roll to a stop, it works pretty well... .easier than I thought. Now I gotta work on rev matching.