if you keep saving it could be in your price range.

 

True, true

 

yeah man..you don't want to scarfice to much of what you want for what you can afford..just save and buy what you want..take your time

 

definitely needs some TLC but what a fun project!

good luck and post more pics when u update...

 

oh jesus i thought that turbo badge came with the car..err..i cant believe cuz you bought a badge that says turbo ppl believe you.

 

I know, right? hahah they think I'm lying. Until the *whoooosh* of course!!


I understand what you guys are saying about "don't sacrifice because of cost" That's why I'm using AGX, not GR-2, you know? They're at least adjustible and replaceable if something breaks. They will last long enought for me to get most of my modding done, I think. After I get the body where I want it is when I'll start spending the big bucks (TEIN SS w/ EDFC, AEM EMS, CF onepiece driveshaft, etc.)

 

i got Tein Flex coils on my s14 and my buddy has tein flex on his s13. the flex are real similar to the SS id say dont get them i like them they are good and reliable but for the price you can get better coilovers like KTS or Silkroad

 

good work so far!

 

your off to a good start man, def keep updating, and yea dont waste the money buying agx and springs if ur gona upgrade later anyways...**** they sell coilovers that are similar to megans on ebay now for 500 bucks, youd be better off buying those than that spring/shock combo to hold you off..but honestly i wouldnt waste the money on any suspension until you can afford what u really want, if u just wana be low for now chop the springs (...i didnt say that lol)

 

Dude I definately vote for you to buy a good car with a blown KA and swap that engine over. Theres such an incredible amount of work to be done to that, and if its rusting and whatnot why waste your time?

 

Hey, congrats on getting a RB20. It is def. a fun motor to have dont let others say otherwise. Its just under rated and I personally like that. Although you have plans which is good why not fix the car up first instead of modifying it? I've been rocking stock suspension for a while now w/ the RB20 but thats because all my money went into maintenance and people ask me why my car runs so good. Def. take care of all them wiring. Like Ryguy said it just might be easier to swap everything over. Once the motor is out why not fix all your problems like the waterpump leak? I would also replace all common parts such as waterpump, coolant hoses, thermostat, sensors, etc. Its just going to be alot easier for you.

Anyways let us know and we'll help you out as much as possible. Cheers!

 

I am a budget builder and I like the input you guys give. One thing I must have in a car is handling. I would upgrade every bushing, spring and bar in this car if I could, but other things need to be done, like you all have noticed

I don't want to put all the work into this car if I don't have to but I decided that, since the swap is already done, I might as well. That way, I will have a bigger sense of pride when it's back to where it needs to be!

I am definitely going to get those Megan-esque coilovers come springtime (when the check comes in ) as well as relocate the battery. I am going to remove the backseat & replace it with a carpeted board when I put the racing seats in and just put a 12" hole in it for my Alphasonik. I was thinking of putting an Optima Red-top behind the center console at that time too. My logic is, since I need to move it to install the FMIC properly, I figure the best place to move it is to the center of the vehicle. Moving it to the rear is okay too, but that adds weight with battery cables, as well as resistance in the wires.

I did just purchase a Wideband O2 and a voltmeter UltraLite Autometer gauges. Package deal for $125.00. Couldn't pass it up. Don't know if I want to hook up the voltmeter, though.

Oh! And I would like to know where I can get a nice-styled (non-OEM) S13 CF hood (I don't want an Invader hood). And also if any of you guys have S13 headlights/Silvia bar/fenders laying around I could really use them. I want to get the clear corners, a CF hood and an aftermarket bumper cover, so the only stock parts I need are the 3 headlight pieces and the fenders. I don't have a lot of money but I will be piecing the front together.

 

lol the voltmeter just goes to any switched 12v. wire in the car.

 

Bump.

Bought all this stuff:

-Enkei LS-5 18" wheels w/ 235/40ZR18 Nitto NT555 Extreme tires
-OEM Aluminum Water Pump
-Griffin Aluminum Radiator
-Magnum SS Brake Lines
-Rotorworks Drilled/slotted rotors w/ NAPA Ceramic pads (don't laugh, they're really fantastic, especially for the price)
-RB-swapped specific S13 FMIC kit (missing the clamps - waiting on them but there is a shot of it installed)
-XTD (I know lol not the best but I got a good deal) 6-puck stage 3 clutch kit
-Used HKS SSQV off an RB25

-Water pump was an effing biotch because I had to remove BOTH timing tensioner pulleys to remove the bolts (I could loosen then but there wasn't enough room to get them out completely).
-Had to remove the bumper support in order for the FMIC to fit.
-Wheels only fit the back of the car for now. They increas traction TREMENDOUDLY though.
-Not left with much room AT ALL to lower the car because of the width of the tires.
-Still wants to overheat for some reason. I have bled every existing bubble AND I keep the fans running constantly. WTF else could be causing the problem?
-Anyone have an Autometer ProComp Ultralite Water Temp gauge they would be willing to part with?
-Running WAY TOO rich. Was told by several people to get a Fuel Defense Cut Off. What is that and shere do I get one/how do I do it?

 

Good progress.... with a stock motor injectors etc........ you should not be running rich... if so check you CAS/Timing bro.

also you never want to cut fuel... dangerous dude.. especially if you are going to be getting on the motor. ignition cut on the other hand is different but would not solve anything with you running rich. Grab a multimeter and check your injectors and make each one is pulsing and not stuck open.

best bet for low lever is to just add a simple yet effective safc controller if you under 550cc injectors have it dyno tuned and or add a wideband setup and smooth it out yourself..

looking good man.. i hope you fixed that wire issue.. that will bring you down to ground zero Very fast... im funny about wiring lol..