Camber correction is?
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Registered User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 15
Camber correction is?
I'm a newb so could someone pls hook me up with a link on what camber correction is? I know it has to do with alignment but my knowledge stops there. When you get your car aligned by a mechanic (i dont do it on my own = ( ) does he make the right corrections or is it someting you must buy parts for?
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 206
From: Flower Mound, TX
Re: Camber correction is?
when you lower your car you usually have negative camber, thats when the tires lean in at the top like
/ ---this is the body--- \ Negative Camber
\ ---this is the body--- / Positive Camber
Then you also have like toe-in (when tires point inwards) and toe-out (pointing out) and so on...
this causes bad wear on your tires but a little bit of negative camber is actually good because you get more grip, but its a trade off between tire life and grip.
When you go get your car aligned (needs to be a 4 wheel alignment) they adjust the camber to spec but if you have it lowered to much you will need to get like adjustable upper control arms for the rear and or some camber adjustment spacers or something, i don't really have a big problem so i haven't worried about, i think when i get it aligned it should be within the right ammount.
hope that helped
/ ---this is the body--- \ Negative Camber
\ ---this is the body--- / Positive Camber
Then you also have like toe-in (when tires point inwards) and toe-out (pointing out) and so on...
this causes bad wear on your tires but a little bit of negative camber is actually good because you get more grip, but its a trade off between tire life and grip.
When you go get your car aligned (needs to be a 4 wheel alignment) they adjust the camber to spec but if you have it lowered to much you will need to get like adjustable upper control arms for the rear and or some camber adjustment spacers or something, i don't really have a big problem so i haven't worried about, i think when i get it aligned it should be within the right ammount.
hope that helped
Contributing Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,109
From: Pasadena,ca
Re: Re: Camber correction is?
Originally posted by dekand
when you lower your car you usually have negative camber, thats when the tires lean in at the top like
/ ---this is the body--- \ Negative Camber
\ ---this is the body--- / Positive Camber
Then you also have like toe-in (when tires point inwards) and toe-out (pointing out) and so on...
this causes bad wear on your tires but a little bit of negative camber is actually good because you get more grip, but its a trade off between tire life and grip.
When you go get your car aligned (needs to be a 4 wheel alignment) they adjust the camber to spec but if you have it lowered to much you will need to get like adjustable upper control arms for the rear and or some camber adjustment spacers or something, i don't really have a big problem so i haven't worried about, i think when i get it aligned it should be within the right ammount.
hope that helped
when you lower your car you usually have negative camber, thats when the tires lean in at the top like
/ ---this is the body--- \ Negative Camber
\ ---this is the body--- / Positive Camber
Then you also have like toe-in (when tires point inwards) and toe-out (pointing out) and so on...
this causes bad wear on your tires but a little bit of negative camber is actually good because you get more grip, but its a trade off between tire life and grip.
When you go get your car aligned (needs to be a 4 wheel alignment) they adjust the camber to spec but if you have it lowered to much you will need to get like adjustable upper control arms for the rear and or some camber adjustment spacers or something, i don't really have a big problem so i haven't worried about, i think when i get it aligned it should be within the right ammount.
hope that helped
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 40
From: Chicago south burbs
Question for -HyJyNx-
What did you do to correct your camber or were the Eibachs conservative enough to not require any correction?
The reason I ask is cause I temporarily installed H&R springs over my Koni's ('96 240 base)and the camber ended up 2 degrees on the front, and 3 degrees on the rear. I was planin on getting adjustable pillow block mounts and rear upper arms from Cusco. Whatcha think?
By the way: to all the rest of yall out there DON'T buy Koni's, the rears are only adjustable once removed from the car and the springs and all the other shiz.
What did you do to correct your camber or were the Eibachs conservative enough to not require any correction?
The reason I ask is cause I temporarily installed H&R springs over my Koni's ('96 240 base)and the camber ended up 2 degrees on the front, and 3 degrees on the rear. I was planin on getting adjustable pillow block mounts and rear upper arms from Cusco. Whatcha think?
By the way: to all the rest of yall out there DON'T buy Koni's, the rears are only adjustable once removed from the car and the springs and all the other shiz.
Contributing Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,109
From: Pasadena,ca
dekand is the one with eibachs not me, but i got a suggestion. http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/suspension.html has eccentric bolts to fix camber, its around the middle of the page.
Contributing Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,854
From: Concord, NH
Damn, you guys beat me too it, lol. Excellent answers!
PDM has front and rear camber correction kits, the front is pretty cheap, however not the rear. They ARE worth it though, becausw otherwise you're tires aren't all th way on the pavement and you'll have horrible traction and turning, and your tires will wear out in months not years.
Dr.
PDM has front and rear camber correction kits, the front is pretty cheap, however not the rear. They ARE worth it though, becausw otherwise you're tires aren't all th way on the pavement and you'll have horrible traction and turning, and your tires will wear out in months not years.
Dr.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 206
From: Flower Mound, TX
Originally posted by LigouriRd
What did you do to correct your camber or were the Eibachs conservative enough to not require any correction?
What did you do to correct your camber or were the Eibachs conservative enough to not require any correction?
The front is fine its the rear that has a little negative camber.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 40
From: Chicago south burbs
Sorry bout the confusion -HyJyNx- I guess I looked at the quote not the origonal author. Anywhay thanks for the input guys but the PDM kits only compensate for up to 1.5 degress of camber, that might be enough for the front but not the rear. I didnt expect that much of a camber rise since i only dropped 1.4" front and 1.3" rear.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 40
From: Chicago south burbs
I took the car in to a shop that does alignments immediately after I installed the springs. There is no factory adjustment, the front strut bolts have zero slop, and the rear links (except for the toe rods) are fixed. I went home and spent the next day off taking the H&Rs off and putting the OEM ones back on. Im a little supprised that no-one else has had this problem.
Banned
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 189
***Check out the write up on
http://www.**********/links/installs/camber/camber.html
I also read that some 240's came out the factory with their alignment already off a little(manufacturing mistakes I guess)
**But anyways The link should help for the back and what I did on my 87 celica was to use bolts one size smaller for the bottom of the shocks. For example instead of a 14mm bolt use a 13mm. That should give you some adjustment.
*Make sure they are the same length, the bolt head and nuts are big enough, and the bolt is strong enough. This should be less money then the store bought camber bolts but might be as good.
http://www.**********/links/installs/camber/camber.html
I also read that some 240's came out the factory with their alignment already off a little(manufacturing mistakes I guess)
**But anyways The link should help for the back and what I did on my 87 celica was to use bolts one size smaller for the bottom of the shocks. For example instead of a 14mm bolt use a 13mm. That should give you some adjustment.
*Make sure they are the same length, the bolt head and nuts are big enough, and the bolt is strong enough. This should be less money then the store bought camber bolts but might be as good.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 40
From: Chicago south burbs
Thanx for the suggestions. I think slottin out the arm is a little hack. Since I autox with the car I think im better off going with adjustable arms and pillow blocks. That way I can adjust for the track then re-adjust for the street.
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